Way back in early April, when I first conceived of this local east side food sampling/tour, Fearless Meat was one of the first names I wrote on my list. As much as I enjoy writing about delicious food (especially pizza), nearly as big a reason I embarked on this journey was as an excuse to finally try some of these spots after years of never getting around to them.
Fearless Meat would've been one of my very first reviews here (it's just up the street from my house) except when the Covid-19 pandemic hit they closed down, and remained closed for quite sometime. I even scratched them from my list at one point, lamenting that this shuttering seemed permanent. So I was quite pleased to discover in mid-July that this was not the case, and that they had been open again for a least a month at that point.
Up the cliff I went! While I'm not a burger expert (at least compared with my pizza expertise), I do have a certain method of determining the truest quality of a hamburger: go for the simplest thing. No, not just patty and bun (because those people are psychopaths and need to be stopped... ick) but pretty close... I often skip the extra charge cheese and keep my free toppings very simple: lettuce, mayo, pickles, and the most interesting mustard available.
Now I definitely understand the argument towards getting the craziest, most indulgent thing on the menu: it's a better reflection of the creativity and ingenuity of the place. For me though... first off if I was actually working for a publication (or any actual publication) that covered my expenses then sure! Gimme a triple patty, grilled cheese bun, smoked meat tower with extra crispy onions, showered in secret sauce and then hook it to my veins. Then call the hospital. My counter-argument: a quality burger doesn't need much more than basic toppings (not even cheese sometimes, which I'm sure people will disagree) because that inherent quality of well cooked patty and fresh bun will shine through no matter what.
Well that's what I did here... aside from springing an extra dollar for a slice of Havarti on there because it's an underrated sandwich cheese and you rarely see it offered anywhere. Cheddar can be a bit overwhelming and so the lighter Havarti was a good choice here, because this is definitely a solid burger my friends. What I love is the texture: a bit crunchy on the outside (similar to a smash burger, though not as greasy or crumbly on the edges) yet still juicy enough on the inside. There are layers here (layers, Jerry!) and the beef doesn't overwhelm you with saltiness (like A&W) or saucy blandness (Burger King). The meat is top notch, and while even really good beef isn't as flavourful as other delicious meats (*cough* pork *cough*) really good beef prepared well is enjoyable to eat because of the subtle taste and the soft juicy feel in the mouth.
This burger rules. It's different than 'No Bull' (which I reviewed recently) and I like that one also, so it's rather nice to know when the craving hits I've got two exceptional options very close by. If only they weren't up that damn hill though...
(And no. I will not make a best burger in Toronto list. ....for free. Heh.)
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