Monday you can fall apart
Tuesday, Wednesday
break my heart
oh Thursday
doesn't even start
Another Tuesday... another Taste! And don't worry, this one will not break your heart.
This week we're back into the cheeseburger game, checking out a fairly new operation that despite having two locations hasn't seemed to have attracted a whole lot of buzz thus far. Then again, the online Toronto food forums I mostly investigate are pizza ones... a revelation I'm sure will surprise absolutely nobody.
Nevertheless! I actually first heard of Friday Burger Company when I was doing my background research on Harry's Charbroiled. While seeking information about the latter's backstory, I stumbled upon this dude, Joe Friday (dun dun dun dun... dun dun dun dun dun!), a longtime chef who gathered up an impressive social media following via his video reviews of various burger joints across Canada and the United States. Hmmmm... hundreds of reviews just about one specific food? I can't imagine what doing that would be like...
His culinary background is extremely diverse and his credentials without question. After about a decade of calling Toronto home and being a key part of several different restaurant concepts, Friday decided to put his name upon a new project based around his very favourite dish: the "humble burger" as he calls it. The first location opened up inside the CIBC Square Food Hall, a place I definitely knew existed before writing this review. Definitely.
I do know Danforth and Woodbine exists, precisely where the second location of Friday Burger Company happens to be. So that's where I went! They close at 8 on Mondays and I was cutting it somewhat close by showing up well after 7... but the lad working solo was more than pleased to fire the griddle back up for me. It's a small space (the exterior photo doesn't lie) with a modest amount of seating, and while being "that guy eating alone in an empty restaurant closing soon" isn't the worst thing in the universe... well nobody wants to be "that guy eating alone in an empty restaurant closing soon". Besides, it was okayish outside and the sun was close to setting.
Lets dive into what I ordered. From a distance, yes the dish on the left looks like some kind of pasta... it is actually their "Friday Fries" (take that, Thursday!). On the right is their straight up Friday burger, single patty not a double, and all the fixins that come within.
Starting with the Friday Fries: you've got crinkle cuts here and goshdarnit why don't more places use the crinkle cuts? Even in the McCain frozen form I always preferred them so much more as a kid. Also featured is a healthy splat of "Friday Sauce", a large handful of green onions (not complaining) and a well dispersed seasoning.
First off... these are terrific fries. The perfect level of crispiness, loaded with soft potato within. Even the inevitably softer fries underneath the sauce still retain some of that crispness and flavour. Fantastic stuff. Green onions are green onions (aka wonderful) so lets talk a bit about the seasoning and the Friday sauce. The sauce tastes much like your classic "secret type sauce" so synonymous with a classic American style cheeseburger, which Friday Burger Co. is clearly aiming to be. Except there is a nice little twist to their version of it: sweetness! Just a tiny bit... they switch out any relishyness (totally a word) for something more like a sweet pepper mixed into the mayo base. Combined with the dash of smokiness from the seasoning (paprika with a mix of other spices), it really works nicely. An incredibly tasty side.
However... as is, one element is desperately missing. It is a simple something: a pork something (bacon?) or maybe just bits of slightly melted cheese (definitely mozzarella if going that direction). On their sides menu, the Friday Fries are only an extra dollar over the regular fries, which is an awfully nice bargain considering the extra stuff... and plus they do also offer chili cheese fries for those seeking something more hearty. I'm just looking at it as an overall dish. They are great! Just in need of one extra little thing to make them totally awesome.
Now to the burger. While both are in the smash burger style, unlike Harry's deliciously crispy, greasy exterior... Friday's burger is much tighter and firmer. Chef Friday calls it a "California Smash" which I can't say I'm familiar with despite spending significant periods of my life in California. Of course, when it comes to Cali burgers I've only ever had eyes for one so... I'm not anything resembling an expert there.
Regarding a burger as "firm" might seem like a warning sign (and on many occasions it is). In this case though, what I mean is how well all the components hold together while eating the burger itself. I sung Harry's praises and deservedly so, but a few bites in I thought that delicious thing was going to collapse into several pieces.
Once again, there's a strong sense of light sweetness within the flavours within the Friday burger, although all varying kinds of sweet. The Friday sauce (which we've already discussed), a more acidic sweet with the tomato slice, and a bready sweet from the soft potato bun. Fortunately, these are all compliments rather than domineering the pilot's chair, which finds the beef squarely steering the plane.
This isn't a particularly greasy burger, at least not to any noticeable point, but it is an impressively juicy one. Chef Friday says he uses a blend of beef cuts to make his patties (brisket, short rib and sirloin, according to his interview with Toronto Life) and in doing so has struck that lovely balance of burger. It isn't even cooked down to slightly under 'Medium' to achieve that fabulous juicy texture... heck if anything this was closer to 'Medium-Well', and this is a thicker patty than your typical smash burger even. It has to be that excellent blend of beef cuts as the masterstroke, unlocking both fantastic flavour and that decadent juiciness while being cooked so thoroughly.
The composition of the burger itself isn't atypical: you've got your lettuce, tomato, melted American cheese (a must), pickles (which were vivid and had some nice punch) and the Friday sauce. And... dried crispy onions... which is a bit more unusual. They were underneath the beef patty and it was only an occasional bite I'd notice them, but I liked them when I got them. Very nice touch.
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Overall! This has been one of those ones where I find myself liking it more while I recall and write about it after the fact... and I still greatly enjoyed it in the moment. This is a really darn good burger, and I highly recommend checking them out if the opportunity arises. Oftentimes I write about how perfecting the simple, the basics of famous dishes is much harder than most realize, and I'm consistently impressed by places that clearly put in the work to get that stuff right. Anyone can make a cheeseburger. Not as many are willing to do what it takes to truly create one.
Chef Friday has a background in American southern cuisine as well, thus explaining the presence of Nashville fried chicken sandwiches on the Friday Burger Company menu. Odds are very high I'll go back a second time to try out one of those. For now, really tasty stuff.
Joe Friday's Top Ten
All right, because the dude legitimately tried like 200 different burgers across Canada or something (again, trying almost 200 of any one dish? Who would do such a thing???) Toronto Life asked him what his Top Ten in Toronto were. So here they are! Can't say I'm familiar with... most of them.
The Kitchener Kid
Canada Basketball, man. It's coming. If it isn't already here.
Tuesday Tune
I mean, come on. I couldn't resist. I'm reviewing a place called "Friday Burger Company", and it ended up being really good... the song of the week had to be this, obviously.
For the record, there are songs and periods of The Cure I like much more... but this is a sweet little pop song that does hit the right spot.
That's all for this week! Until next time... stay safe, stay sharp, and most of all do not spill that mustard.
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