Come on lets leave our misery
and crawl toward where we want to be
Can't we try
can't we try
Come on sleep one night peacefully
Then I'll yawn all day easily
Another Tuesday... another Taste. Don't worry, this 121st edition of the weekly review won't be quite as long as the epic Breakfast Sandwich ranking last week (a list which apparently angrily confused quite a few folks on Reddit... good times).
Nope, this week is much more straightforward and pretty well known. La Cubana has been on the Toronto food scene for quite some time, now with a trio of locations (plus a rum cocktail "speakeasy" on Ossington) including a stall in the snazzy food court of The Well in downtown Toronto.
The story of La Cubana starts with Chef Corinna Mozo, a Stratford Chef School graduate from Montreal who spent the early part of her career honing her craft in prestigious restaurants throughout Boston and New York City. In 2008 with her young family she came back to Canada (Toronto) to open up Delux on Ossington Avenue, which featured a blend (she supposedly dislikes the term "fusion") of French and Cuban cuisines. Noticing the considerable lack of authentic Cuban food options in the city, Chef Mozo along with her brother shifted focus to a new concept: La Cubana, inspired by the colourful retro diners of Havana (also an ode to their grandfather who ran one) opened its doors on Roncevalles in 2013 and never looked back.
This little video does a nice job sharing more about Chef Mozo and the origin/inspiration for the restaurant.
I confess my Spanish is... less than sharp... so when checking out La Cubana's menu at their Well location (which was quite bustling this particular Saturday afternoon) there were several items I did not at all know what they were. Good thing we all have that internet stuff in our pockets, eh. Now armed with knowledge I totally had in my brain ten seconds earlier (yep), I ordered their short rib medianoche sandwich with a side of their 'yuca fries'.
Indeed, yuca (or cassava if you prefer) was one of those items I was unfamiliar with. Like potatoes, they are part of that root vegetable family... although when trying them I found some considerable differences. Unlike the fluffy and soft insides of a well cooked potato, these had a dense and pastier kind of texture. Pleasantly crispy on the outside as well, but also semi-tough and firm in certain corners. The flavour had a subtle honey-like sweetness to it, much different than the full on assault of sugary flavour one gets from the commonly found sweet potato fry.
As for the dip... I didn't much care for it. Nothing bad about it, not really... there just wasn't a whole lot going on with it. Had a bit of a yogurt-like thing going on with it's own little slight touches of creamy sourness, whereas I would've liked something with a bit more zing or spice to it.
I'd say overall this was more interesting than they were tasty. The seasoning was simple (just salt) and very on point: the smaller more bite-sized fries were quite fun to chomp through... but those bigger ones had those tougher chew moments and less of that enjoyable crispy texture. Pretty all right but not likely I order them again. Not really my thing.
"Medianoche" is Spanish for "midnight" (another edition to the list of things I did not know) and medianoche sandwiches are so named this because of their popularity of being served nearby Cuban nightclubs into the early hours of the morning. While La Cubana is probably best known for their pressed take on the famed Cubano sandwich... the chance to try this short rib medianoche offering was far too appealing for my curious taste buds.
Sometimes I make unwise calls in the moment (such as not sampling one of La Cubana's in house made drinks, whoops)...choosing this short rib medianoche is certainly not one of them. You've got a guava bbq sauce, red cabbage slaw, crispy onions and a chimichurri (which comes mostly as very thinly sliced jalapeno peppers among a minimal herby oil).
This was 'that kind of sandwich' I liked more and more with each bite... like all the flavours kept further marinating together as I progressed. Just fantastic: there's a wonderful balance of a brown sugar-like thickness from the bbq sauce, those crispy onions pop in with their little crumbly crunch at just the right moments... then you've got that red slaw. Terrific zing (for lack of a better term) and bright acidity that soaks through the other flavours like a delicious undercurrent. Those particular bites where the wetness of the slaw seeped into the bread itself... genuinely incredible. A party of flavour explosion, my friends. Tangy, sweet, spicy... all in distinct accord.
Even without these fantastic supporting toppings, like if the sandwich were just the short rib and bun by itself... it probably still would be pretty good. While I'm not totally sure either way, the bun gives off a firm yet soft taste of a brioche or challah bread (considering Chef Mozo's affinity to mix in French influences I'll lean closer to brioche).
Meanwhile that beef short rib is exceptionally juicy and tender: plenty of slow braised beef flavour that fills and lingers in the mouth... a pleasant chewiness to it and the taste hardly fades at all. Considering this isn't a particularly fatty cut of beef either, the looseness of that texture is especially impressive and a testament to the high level of preparation and quality here. This is one you want to take your time with and savor, not scarf down in two minutes.
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Overall! We've got a definite winner here, folks. I could take or leave those yuca fries personally but they were very well made for what they are. That sandwich though... simply some damn delicious stuff... the perfect blend of vivid ingredients with accessibility flavour-wise. They're keeping things relatively reigned in as far as big spices and seasonings go... with the little touches they do use adding so much to something already expertly done.
I'll definitely go back in the future (and actually try one of their virgin beverages this time) while in the meantime to you, dear reader, I certainly recommend trying La Cubana if you've yet to do so. It also helps that I've always liked the smooth sleek colourful retro look of 1950s diners as well... there's an appealing charm to the shiny aesthetic of that era (not so much the era itself).
Also it should be noted that the location in The Well does have a more limited menu than the other locations, which strike me as a more sit down with table service type of dining experience. I certainly think these sandwiches are the rare type that can work both ways: casual enough for on the go, yet sophisticated enough (and not too messy) for a solid lunch date. Either way, thumbs up.
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Tuesday Tune
A couple years back I saw this band with some close friends at the Phoenix here in Toronto (which I think is still open? I keep hearing their imminent closure is getting pushed back, a pushing back which I hope continues indefinitely).
It was an incredible show (aided by a funny and legal beverage I'd consumed before heading in) full of sprawling musical atmosphere and sublime musical moments. I'm pretty sure they did this song (the length of it certainly lends itself to a live performance)... a perfect tune to get yourself lost in for a while on a sleepy evening.
That's all for this week! Until next time, stay safe, stay cool or warm or whatever you prefer here in late April... and most of all don't spill that mustard.
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