Lets keep this pie train moving. Here's where some real good ones chug on in.
#40 - ViVetha Bistro - B
2483 Queen Street East
An established spot in the east Beaches known for some damn fine delicious brunch specials, ViVetha has only recently entered the pizza game and it's up to that same standard. There isn't much in the way of crispiness, even in the crust, instead providing a soft cheesy, doughier texture. The sauce is herby, though a bit forgotten in that thick flavour of cheese, while the toppings (perhaps somewhat scarce) are of strong quality (the bacon in particular is exceptional). It's heavy, possibly too much foundation over surface, but tasty regardless.
Extra points! Being the second closest spot on the list to my house (just over 400 metres) but more importantly for providing a generous portion of solid complimentary garlic aioli (featured in the photo). And no, they didn't know I was a pizza critic or whatever this mad quest has made me into.
Hey, If you ever fall asleep on the Queen streetcar, wake up at Neville Park in the middle of the afternoon and your first thought is how hungry you are: ViVetha is right there waiting for you.
#39 - Terroni (Queen West) - B
720 Queen Street West
Confession: until only a few months ago I'd never tried Terroni. Even though back in my days of working at Libretto (when just Ossington existed) quite a few of my co-workers had come from various Terronis' and there were often discussions of which pie was better. Now these several years later, it was somewhat surreal to finally go and decide which one I preferred.
My initial look at the menu was seriously intimidating: dozens of simple two/three topping combinations naming cheeses like this was a Monty Python sketch. Eventually I elected a sausage and smoked scamorza duo, flavourful yet without anything distinctive beyond juiciness or smokiness. The crust meanwhile is a complete non factor, begging for the olive oil on the side.
Overall a pleasant experience and pleasant meal, but strangely unremarkable. Good, sure, but pales against more interesting options.
Also, the 'no substitutions' thing is damn pretentious. Blah blah.
#38 - Pizza Pide - B
949 Gerrard Street East
Here's a unicorn for the list and I bet some purists will object. I'm open minded though and since Turkish pizza basically declares itself as pizza (it's in the title c'mon), I gave this a shot and a spot.
What stands out most here is the crust/dough, which is like a delicious homemade pretzel with its buttery, salty smooth taste. The cheese is also quite nice, creamy and complimentary of the dry earthiness of the Turkish sausage slices. I would've liked a bit more quantity, as it was overall rather rich, heavy and yet not a lot of food. Pide is quite affordable at least (10-14ish bucks) and the garnishes on the side (and creamy sauce in house nearby) make good sidekicks for this interesting pie.
Now if someone tells me I just fudged up and got a Turkish calzone by mistake... I'm firing my translator. Once I hire one, of course.
#37 - Il Paesano Pizzeria and Restaurant - B
396 Browns Line
So I've discussed certain places happening to be super close to my house (the most definitely riveting part of these articles right?). Il Paesano wins that Opposite Crown: registering a whopping 24 kilometres(!) away.
Walking in, it felt like one of those places untouched by the passage of time. Same walls, same colour scheme, the fellow at the take-out counter was seriously dressed in a tuxedo. Maybe I was back in the 80s, or the 40s. Who knows. A pleasant surprise: finding they offer single slices at an absurd three dollars(!). The last time I spent so little on a solitary slice must've been junior high (well beyond the 80s, though).
A low amount of sauce may be its biggest weakness, a shame because this is a naturally garlicy pie (you can see the seasoning in the photo). It's a soft slice with thickly sliced pepperoni (a nice touch) to add great texture against a heavy cheese/dough factor. Just nice, satisfyingly old school. It's amazing how a slice at Pizza Pizza can run you almost twice as much as one here and won't even taste half as good.
#36 - Frank's Pizza House - B
1352 St. Clair Avenue West
Frank's is another one of those places where you can just smell the familiarity in the air with the other folks there. As I was waiting for my pizza the fellow behind the counter (probably the owner) was chatting with someone the entire time debating various other pizza joints they liked/disliked. This nerdiness got me pretty quietly excited, but unfortunately that waned after the pizza finally came out and was seriously overcooked on one side. Kinda like feeling an outsider at some special old type pizza club (I'm sure they exist somewhere).
The pizza itself is quite solid, without anything truly outstanding (besides their generous load of toppings). Good classic pizza sauce is the most notable factor here (an explosively rich tomato taste), with good bready crust (on the side that wasn't overcooked) and solid salami. A well baked Toronto pizza. Maybe it's better if you're 'in the circle' though.
#35 - Apiecalypse Now! - B
735 Bloor Street West
A vegan pizza? On my list? Consider your mind blown.
Apiecalypse immediately wins points for their interior style, featuring a giant mural of a young Homer Simpson (mmmmm, doughnuts...) among other delights. The pizza itself? Well for the sake of fairness I'm glad I went with a friend who got a different slice than I. My choice was the daily special (a lasagna type slice) and it didn't work. The heavy noodle combined with stringy vegan cheese and a bean base was incredibly bland, with weird texture that my taste buds struggled to power through. My friend's slice, however, was a buffalo chicken imitation with way more going on: the 'chicken' had a juicy texture combined with the buffalo and a 'ranchy' sauce was enough of a definite winner to pull my grade here much higher.
Bonus periphery points for a nice crust (like a peppery garlic finish) and a fantastic tzatziki-like-not-tzatziki dipping sauce. I wouldn't seek out vegan pizza specifically (cheese is too damn good) but this place has some very interesting ideas. Creativity and atmosphere pluses abound.
#34 - Local 1794 - B
1794 Danforth Avenue
Not a place I was planning to try. Going up to the Danforth one recent day, my intention was towards Gerrard Pizza, only finding them inexplicably closed (unfortunately I never got another chance to try again before publishing this list).
I remember Local 1794 for something about four years ago: I had a job interview there! This was a week before they even opened, so imagine my level of amusement to see the layout, decorations and general design to be mostly unchanged in 2019. It's trying really hard to be a fancy speakeasy, an overdone but still appealing look.
As far as the pizza, Local follows the trend of newish restaurants that don't focus on pizza necessarily, but feature a few wood-fired options nevertheless. This particular one is decidedly average for a wood-fired pie in regards to crust (good but slightly stale), sauce and cheese (present), but makes up for that with exceptional toppings. I'm a fan of wild boar sausage and this here, mixed in with nicely sliced bacon and oregano, fills this pizza with vivid, juicy high quality meatiness. Sort of funny to write that line after a vegan place, now that I think of it.
Another funny thought is how Local 1794 is absurdly next to #42 on the list, Trecce. They practically share a front patio.
#33 - Yeah Yeahs Pizza - B
1210 Yonge Street
No association.
Yeah Yeahs is a New York style pizza joint originally based out of Nova Scotia, having opened their second location here in the northern part of Rosedale. Like a good New York slice it keeps things simple: some light chili flake/pepper seasoning, greasy good cheese, sauce and big (spicy) soppressata. The crust is chewy and perfect if you're a maniac, I mean type, that likes to bite the crust and then centre of the slice. Also positive, how it's more saucy than oily: you won't need to wipe your hands every other bite.
I mentioned Superpoint as my dream 'arcade pizza' slice. Well during my visit to Yeah Yeahs back in December... boom! A Super Nintendo system setup, with controllers, rigged up to the original Mario Kart. Seeing as I hadn't played that game in maybe ten years (when my old SNES died... RIP) and I was alone in the whole place, I had to test my skills in a grand prix. This started out bad: I didn't even qualify to finish the first race on 100 cc in Mushroom Cup!
But I got it together quick and won four of the next five to win the tournament. Phew, don't think my eleven year old self could ever forgive me.
#32 - Chito's Pizza and Foods - B+**
1308 Bloor Street West
This is one I really had to debate a lot, because if I'm rating places on their pizza alone... Chito's barely gets a C+.
So why all the way up here? Well they offer something very intriguing: fresh shawarma off the spit and onto your slice, and a lot of it. Maybe too much.
I won't grade or critique the shawarma itself (because this thing is about pizza, damn it) so what I'll say is that it enhances this pie in such an incredible way. This juicy chicken slathered all over an otherwise ordinary Hawaiian slice, plus their garlic and hot sauce (complimentary and also excessive), is a decadent attack of flavours. I felt like Hedonism Bot eating this thing.
Sometimes combining two amazing foods simply will not work (ice cream on burgers!) or sometimes like here it's so successful you're shocked more places don't do it. I know others indeed do, but seeing how Chito's is well known and gets huge lineups, at Lansdowne of all places, I'll select them as my representative and call it a day.
Before we continue, should a 'best pizza list' reward a place even when the best attribute of their pizza is something technically separate? Well that's my asterisk up there: deserving the spot but with a flag on the field. Also recall though that I've rewarded points already to places for other aspects beyond the pizza itself, such as atmosphere, side sauces and service. Also this thing is just so damn delicious, try it for yourself.
#31 - Ristorante Rosina - B+
740A King Street West
Ah, Rosina. Quite possibly the best smelling pizza on the list, and my previous PiCo mention of not too many toppings doesn't apply here. This pie had so much on it I have to look up their website just to remember; pardon me a sec.
Still here? Wicked! Glad you stuck around. Anyhow the pizza I ordered was the 'Rosina' (geez why was that so hard to remember). Loaded with dollops of pesto, nduja paste, mushrooms and soppressata, this is a pizza with lots happening (something different with every bite, really). Spicy yet earthy with the mushrooms, while the pesto leans more towards subtle nutty basil methods of persuasion than oily garlic ones. The cheese is top notch here, squeaky yet oozing all over the pizza with excellent coverage.
I know I've said this a lot but you must know what's coming: the crust/dough is the weakness. At this level of pizza, it's not a dealbreaker but all the other elements are here for an 'A-' grade at least. It falls short because of that damn cornmeal base (I say that a lot, too), giving this fantastic pie a gritty, gravel-like texture in your mouth. Maybe it's just me, again I don't even like bread with seeds in it. Next time at Rosina though, I might get a calzone. Great damn pizza, foiled by this writer's particular taste hangups.
#30 - (Locale) Mercatto - B+
330 Bay Street
As an outskirts living, professional part-timer who's been spending way too much damn money on pizza the past while... I don't eat on Bay Street basically ever. But the Mercatto chain/family/whatever is enough of a presence that well... worth a shot. Also since there are so many locations this is the lonely one appearing on the list: I figure even though each one has slightly different menus, they all aim for similar things and I'm skeptical the pizza is dramatically different from one to another.
Another entry on the 'wild boar sausage is delicious' list, 'Locale' does a standard Neapolitian pizza and executes it well. This is good wood-fired action, gaining points for sweet tomato sauce, good crisp crust, that wild boar (dry yet melting in your mouth) and cheap happy hour Negronis! My second ever Negroni and the first one I didn't make myself, so probably why this one actually tasted good.
Strong service as well, as despite the place being packed I felt welcome sitting at the bar just being some dude ordering takeout. The pizza could use a bit more cheese and was somewhat flimsy (even for wood-fired) but otherwise a solid surprise.
#29 - Lambretta Pizzeria (Roncesvalles) - B+
89 Roncesvalles Avenue
Sometimes you're really good at something without being very interesting. Lambretta makes a damn fine pizza: I've been to both locations and either are extremely enjoyable experiences. The Queen East location has a great patio, Roncesvalles great decor and a nice big window to watch the neighbourhood pass by.
Describing their pizza, my initial/most dominating thought is unremarkable excellence. Everything here is good: crisp arugula, sweet tomato sauce, good prosciutto, a crust cooked and charred like its done all the homework, all of it works really well. It's like your friend in school who studied hard without obsessing over it, always went to class, was super friendly, modestly popular and just missed the honour roll every semester by a percentage point or two. You'll walk away glad, satisfied and happy to revisit a real solid friend. Those times just won't stick out as much as with others. Unremarkable excellence.
#28 - General Assembly - B+
331 Adelaide Street West
Sometimes you're just at the wrong place at the wrong time. By this I don't mean General Assembly itself, I mean I was crossing the street with this pizza you see above when a car turned towards me, sped up as he got closer and then threatened me before I could even ask this lobotomy patient where the hell his brain was. And we yelled at each other, suggested graphic harm upon one another, I kicked his stupid ass car in the back, you know fun downtown Toronto stuff. Luckily this creep was also a coward and we didn't actually come to blows (can't think of many more deserving of a pizza box edge across the face). This was obviously a very sour experience and unfairly associated in my memory with GA pizza.
I don't subtract points from the pizza itself for that of course (that would be stupid). For me, GA is a tale of two very different pies I tried. The first was a spicy Hawaiian style, with thinly shaved jalepenos, real smokey greasey bacon, maybe too heavy on the pineapple (heavy sweetness) which was offset by lumps of creamy ricotta and a solid foundation of thin dough and steady mozzarella. I was so impressed GA had a spot in my early Top Ten for quite some time until this league of extraordinary pies became crowded.
My second taste (the one pictured above, and also witness to that altercation) was a lamb sausage pizza, loaded with spices and herbs (like a lamb gyro meets a pizza). Again the thin cheese/dough combination was a strength, as was the unique flavour. The sauce though is fairly generic, while the lamb (oily and well seasoned) was so damned greasy it dripped off my slices whenever gravity said hello. The creamy drizzle, while an stylish touch, really didn't add anything either.
Overall I'd say: this is a good little spot with some affordable (though very small pizzas all) and creative ideas. When it works it really works, when it doesn't it's still... good.
#27 - 850 Degrees Pizzeria - B+
3455 Lakeshore Avenue West
Well great. I took so long trying these spots that one went up and closed on me (more on that later). Fortunately this one had twins (the newer Bloor West is the toast one) and their original Mimico spot is still going strong. Naturally I'd tried the Bloor one... sigh.
Okay... the likelihood that the pizza offered at either location is so similar, maybe even identical, that this will still work. Yes/no? Whatever! I am not going to Mimico again until snowstorms stop greeting me as I arrive.
I tried 850 (Bloor) in November (it was super dead, sadly foreboding it would seem) and got myself a pizza a local friend later that evening described as "pita with stuff on it". Isn't that like every pita since the dawn of pita time?
I'll disagree, even though this photo above gives that assertion no favours of dissuasion. A place that makes something simple into something delicious is a winner though: this pie has only three things on it (no sauce) yet it works fantastically. The rapini is tasty bitter with a hint of olive oil and garlic, the sausage tender (it looks undercooked in the photo but it was fine). Add a consistent mozzarella base and a really good, outwardly crunchy inwardly soft crust. Sealing the deal is how tasty it remains while cold, and a complimentary side of chili oil/marinated peppers you see there, a real nice contrast to the subtle flavour combination working here.
#26 - Victory Cafe - B+
440 Bloor Street West
Building this list as I went, I imagined certain moments where people might say "What? That place is that high? He's completely out of his mind!"
I confess though, having Victory this high feels weird, but the pizza is seriously good. Part of me suspects they just kept the wood oven left over from the old 'Hey Lucy' location and made it their own. Good call, because I was impressed.
The occasion on which I went is, in retrospect, pretty awkward considering recent events, but this was a good night. Victory is known for great local beer selection, not pizza. This pie though just works: plentiful cheese (goat cheese with mozzarella will make so many things better), mushrooms for some nice oily earthiness and the prosciutto man, just 'melt in your mouth with every bite' kind of stuff. The sauce is average and not much of a factor, though there's enough else going on here it's not a critical complaint. I may be out of my mind (don't answer that), either way this one is a winner.
#25 - Indie Ale House - B+
2876 Dundas Street West
Two more spots known more for beer than pizza, back to back? I swear I don't do this stuff on purpose. It doesn't matter anyway since we're getting to where these pizzas have fewer and fewer flaws to pick at.
Indie Ale House is a spot in the Junction known for really, really fabulous beer brewed in-house with a strong food menu designed to compliment said beer. I was reviewing pizza on this occasion, as much fun as reviewing beer would be (wait, I shouldn't give myself ideas like that. This was hard enough).
Their pizza wins points for creativity more than anything. The elements here are solid: plentiful sauce, weirdly twisted soft crust, wild boar sausage on point (I have my favs) and globs of red pepper infused ricotta/light cream cheese gave nice contrast to the assertive other tastes. It's a real heavy pizza and I'm ashamed to confess I couldn't finish the whole thing in one sitting, even while drinking a beer! (Feel free to restrict my machoness points indefinitely).
Indie has no glaring flaw, only it's a bit too much once you get to that third or fourth slice. This is that fundamentally sound, out of shape utility guy on your team. Meanwhile the real heavy hitters are waiting on deck.
#24 - True True Pizza - B+
169 King Street East
True true story: I tried True True on a truly tremendously torturous day traveling home from a trying work time. Heh. True True is thin rectangle pizza I was not particularly optimistic about trying (likely due to my rotten mood). Counter to that expectation, yeah I was impressed. The thinness makes it look almost too delicate to eat, especially loaded with toppings (and cilantro? That's a new one). Yet it works. Pictured is another spicy Hawaiian, and True hits that right balance of crispy salty meats, sweetness from the pineapple and punchy spice with those little red oily chilies. There's good balance between such easily conflicting flavours, the soft thinness of it bringing those toppings to the forefront even more so. There's also enough sauce and cheese that it still tastes like a pizza at its core instead of a flatbread, and the grated parmesan all over gives it a more professional finish (since it looks like it's served on a cafeteria tray).
The service wasn't very welcoming (they seemed peeved I'd popped in half an hour before they closed) which is discouraging. Otherwise well done.
#23 - Gusto 101 - B+
101 Portland Street
Possibly one of the most physically awkward pizzas I've had to eat. It's a real grower though. First of all the presentation just looks beautiful: the single basil leaf in the centre, the islands of mozzarella floating in vividly red sauce, the smoked slightly transparent provolone draped atop the spherical meatballs while the perfectly round crust brings everything around. I almost felt bad eating it, almost.
The pizza doesn't taste as good as it looks (because it might take the top prize if it did), but has some serious strengths. Buttery cheese, the smokiness of the provolone and the juicy um, meatiness of the meatballs all combine into some highly anticipated bites. Some good sauce in a good amount (flavourwise it 'more happens to be there' than anything), while the crust is a bit harsh to travel through. Strong points for the cheese, the meatballs (again quite tasty) and the presentation.
#22 - Mattachioni - B+
1617 Dupont Street
Whaddyou mean I have to cut my own pizza? I'm hot! In all seriousness, Mattachioni is a spot near the end of Dupont (westward) that feels like half cafe, half sit down restaurant, half grocery store and half farmer's market. Whaddyou mean that doesn't add up? Where's my schweater....
Everybody, there is a lot of really good pizza in this city. Trust me I know! At this point, it's challenging to pick apart a strong B+. There just isn't anything critically unpleasant going on here: The sauce is super sweet (like tomatoes stewed in house), the cheeses (mozza and stracciatella bufala drizzled with olive oil) very creamy and powerful, the prosciutto... tasty like prosciutto almost always is (maybe somewhat dry but still delicious). You know the basil on this pie tasted like they picked it out from their back garden that morning, that's how fresh it was.
Fine, the crust is merely ok. That knocks it slightly. Whatever, this pizza is simple and simply fantastic.
#21 - Big House Pizza - B+***
962 Danforth Avenue
Prepare to throw your stones: I hate onions. Cannot stand em. Green onions are fine, or deliciously caramelized onions (soft and brown and sweet) but any other onion? Enemies until death.
Unfortunately I misread Big House's menu when I first tried them and out came a Philly Cheesesteak style pizza loaded with onions (which it obviously should be, whoops). Despite the presence of my little tricky foes, this pizza was incredible. A cream cheese base, a garlic buttered crust (god damn one of the best crusts I ever had), banana peppers and super tender bits of steak. I cannot say enough about that crust: so crispy like a baguette and a superb accompaniment to the creamy steak action happening all around. Phenomenal stuff.
*** Big House is actually shutting down after Sunday March 3rd (real damn soon) and so get the word out to east end folks or if you otherwise happen to be in the area. Pop in if you can, grab a beer at the nearby Only Cafe (you can bring the pizza inside there) and just give these guys one last try. Here's hoping they're able to find a new location sooner rather than later.
Next up: the front half of the final 20.
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