Thursday 25 February 2021

East End Eats XXI: La Sala Restaurant

 


 

Delivery also exists...? A concept this intrepid writer quickly contemplated while slipping through snowy sidewalks with an at-risk pizza box. Determination, combined with precise amounts of madness make a truly genius hey look over there! (heh heh heh).

I ventured out on foot, in seriously not ideal weather, to La Sala Restaurant, very curious about their recent pizza option I'd noticed while walking by. Frankly it's easily forgiven if you've missed noticing La Sala even exists. It certainly took me a while and I've been here in the Beaches several years now.

Queen Street east of the Don River has a bunch of little restaurant gems tucked into their side streets, Completo off Coady Ave being a widely known example of this. La Sala seems like any other large Beaches house until you get a closer look, an actual restaurant appearing out of nowhere. Reminds me of the first time over a decade ago when I discovered the old spots on Markham Street like Victory Cafe or The Central (goddamn developers). La Sala, though obviously just offering takeout currently, reminds me of that: a cozy restaurant/bar squeezed into a large living room. The server's station is in a nook by some stairs, the entranceway is where the debit machine is, etc. Only now these dining room tables and chairs are covered with plastic that hope for patrons again someday again.

The pizza itself! Hmmmm. It's perfectly fine and I'd overall give it a solid grade... well prepared ingredients toppings-wise and a steadily crisp crust. The texture hits a nice spot, dominated by soft dough and cheese which in equal balance is usually a winner. And this pizza could be a real surprise winner, I really want it to be, but it isn't.

They have numerous pizza options (probably too many, some descriptions seem to lean on the verge of experiments) and my selection was fittingly the one they named after the restaurant itself: sauce and cheese with beef tenderloin (interesting), Italian sausage and mushrooms. While waiting (mask on of course) I chatted with the very fellow who made my pie and put it in the oven, perhaps even the owner and or head chef himself. A delightful dude, very confident about his food and eager for a patio season we can hopefully have safely. Man I'm really dawdling with this review my apologizes. 

I'm certain this is a good restaurant, but I also think making pizza is something rather new to this kitchen, and so their attempt at distinctive flavour is way too heavy. The pie I got was far overseasoned: every non-crust bite just hit me with that salty sting in the top of my mouth instantly, despite the tasty ingredients. I really tried to enjoy the rest of it, but this reminded me of making somebody dinner in high school after discovering seasoning salt for the first time. Like somebody just emptied out their spice cabinet onto an unsuspecting pizza. Damn.

I say damn because I can tell there is otherwise some quality here... good cheese, very good sauce (in-house tomato sauce sticks out when you've gone through as many pizzas as I, friends), the sausage and beef tenderloin have marvelous texture... but as a pizza it tries too hard to impress with the seasoning, the little extras, and it strangles this thing. Without those frills this could be a top 50 pizza in Toronto, maybe... but instead it's merely tasty, enjoyable but pricey and singularly flawed. And you'll need to rehydrate after each slice. I'd give La Sala a another chance for usre, but to try something else.


Pizza Quest Grade:  B-

 

 

 

 

 

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