Back in late 2020, I adventured out to Mimico in hopes of trying two Etobicoke pizza joints for my Third Pizza Quest. The two places were Mamma Martino's, a longtime staple of the area, and a newer arrival on the scene: Revolver.
This Third Pizza Quest was tragically aborted soon afterwards, as my cell phone (containing all my notes and photos of the near dozen places I'd tried at this point) was stolen. As such, I didn't think much of Revolver Pizza for a while. "It's all the way on the other side of town! Bah!" was my sentiment, despite hearing further praises of it from a west end baseball chum who knows his 'za.
Well clearly, at long last, I went back. The very same friend of mine I'd visited Revolver with that first time really wanted to go to San Remo bakery, and since they happen to be on the same block... the opportunity was obvious. After a stop at the bakery (that place is wild, their sandwiches are larger than bricks!) it was pizza time.
I went for two slices (why not?): a standard Hawaiian slice (though with smoked bacon instead of ham) and their Chef Special, a white pizza consisting of salami, rapini and sesame seeds. Plus a garlic aioli dip, because again.... why not.
It's really a wonderful thing when the quality of a pizza is perfectly balanced in very aspect. Here, you've got something with just the right ratio of cheese, dough, toppings and (in the case of the Hawaiian) tomato sauce. I probably love myself a deep dish pizza more than many others of course, but even I acknowledge how that type of pie is going to be an overload of cheese and sauce more than anything else. Revolver is the opposite of that, and it's damn fine stuff.
As for the flavours, these slices were simple but just enjoyable to eat. Well baked yet maintaining a firm gooey texture on each bite, with just enough crisp and slight char also. The pineapple on the Hawaiian was juicy (not dried out like you'll find in cheaper joints) and while I would've liked a bit more bacon on here... the basic cheese and sauce combo on this thing is so tasty this really isn't an issue at all. As is, a great mix of subtle sharp (the pineapple), salty pork, a tomato sauce on the sweeter side and perfectly melted mozzarella. Really well done.
The Chef's Special slice was the weaker of the two slices, but still delicious in its own way. You definitely get a better taste of the cheese on this one, which is good because Revolver's cheese is fantastic. Just a really soft texture that feels pleasant in the mouth. The lightly fatty salami and bitter rapini is a fine combo while the sesame seeds add a nice little nutty flavour under the surface of the other toppings.
Meanwhile, the garlic aioli is a terrific compliment for your crust dipping needs. A nice mix of creaminess and garlicy punch, with the ideal consistency where it doesn't drip everywhere nor do you need to scoop it to get it. The crust itself is quite good too... a nice hybrid of charred and bubbled flavour with soft bread within.
I'd say this is an excellent pizza, certainly worthy of a spot in my top 25 (maybe top 20) with a grade firmly at the 'B++' level. The key word is balance: no aspect of this pie tilts askew in any direction, it's just very well rounded in every way. Definitely worth the trip out to Mimico if you, like me, aren't particularly close to that neat part of town. I will mention though that a friend of mine, who visits there more frequently than I, suggests the slices are better than the whole pies. Hey, nothing wrong with a place specializing in slices when they're this darn good.
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