Yes yes, my first thought too was this song.
While this particular very-local-for-me new pizza spot has gotten some decent recognition since opening, I actually first discovered their existence completely by accident. You see... I'm a crazy person who will still play hardball in November if possible, and will afterwards ride my bicycle home from these weekly autumn games... to the East Toronto Beaches from Etobioke. That's the crazy person part.
This ride is legit awesome and fun (for maniacs), but I've often found a little boost in awareness/enjoyment helps the cause when the endurance wanes. And so, it was in this edible condition I took a detour late on this usual epic route to walk along the southside of Queen East near Woodbine. Some place had the Raptors game on visibly through the large front window so I stopped to peek in for a couple of possessions, just as a trio of pub-hopping lads approached. Two of the trio went inside the place (which upon seeing slices on metal trays underneath the television I realized the true nature of this establishment) while the third lad chatted me up as I hazily marveled at my unexpected and dopey discovery. A new pizza place in the Beaches!
That's how I first heard of Otherside pizza. I revisited a couple of times in the next few weeks, hoping to sample a couple of slices as I did with Revolver, but each time was rebuffed. Not by anyone working, but initially by being unimpressed upon the choice of slices available, and then completely halted multiple times by not seeing any slices available at all. I got impatient and during a recent halftime of this sad Raptors season, I called ahead for a whole pizza. Their whole pizzas are pricey (24 bucks and up) but are larger at 18" over your standard 12", so it didn't seem too excessive for a hungry and frustrated fan such as I.
Checking their website/social media outlets, Otherside's mission proclaims to replicate a classic New York pizza here in Toronto. Not a short bar to clear, and this particular pizza critic has been to that sleepless city and sampled many pizza pies there. I'm going to leave that idea mostly aside however for this review, and instead focus on Otherside's pizza itself in isolation of any ideal.
I ordered the Mikey: a tomato sauce base with bacon, mozzarella, oregano, mushrooms and pepperoni. Holy sweet pig lords a lot of pepperoni. At least on one half of it. One aspect of this pizza that is immediately noticeable is how unevenly dispersed everything is. It's like one half got way too much of the gooey salty staff and the other side is a desert with just mushrooms and herbs to keep one company (not ideal compliments for a dry occasion).
The toppings (in balanced measure) are tasty when you get them. The pepperoni in particular is a standout, a fantastic combination of tender and juicy with that classic crispy pork flavour. Likewise the cheese is a strong quality mozzarella, buttery and firm and lacking any excessive greasiness. There isn't a whole lot of bacon on here (I had completely forgotten there was any until editing this review) but it is tender and flavourful when you catch that rarity. When this pizza completely comes together, it's really quite darn good.
Unfortunately, such togetherness is the exception here and not the standard. For as many delicious harmonious bites, there are at least three that are either sparsely occupied by topping or are completely overwhelmed by them. The former is especially unpleasant because this is a thin pizza in the center and an exceedingly dry one at that. This dough/crust has little flavour beyond dust and the texture is the worst kind of dry and chewy.
This would be somewhat manageable if the tomato sauce was vivid and plentiful, but its barely a factor in these proceedings. One forgets (like the bacon) it is even there. Another shame because this pie is well seasoned and could really use that extra bit of tomato punch to liven it up and fill that missing puzzle piece. Instead, some of these barren slices are barely tolerable in their dusty tough texture and its thin composition makes it an impossible task to reheat (and with a pizza this enormous you'd likely have to at some point).
Finally, the basil garlic dip you see is quite excellent. A good balance (and smart mix) between two great flavours, and considering this particular pizza a dip becomes a crucial necessity for much of it.
Overall! This was a bit of a disappointment, I'm sad to say. The positive elements are all there: great toppings, exceptional mozzarella, generous portions, terrific dip. But the bland texture and flavour of the bread, with a serious lack of sauce with the thin base just zaps away all those good things going on here. It's too thin to reheat in a toaster oven, the slices too large to heat in a pan (ideal for thin pizzas) and a microwave (truly on the lower tier of options) would completely rubberize the slice.
As such, Otherside clearly has half the right idea, but the huge glaring weakness knocks down their grade significantly for me. This is a 'B--' pizza, way on the outskirts of a Toronto Top 75. I might go back for a slice (if they bring those back again) someday and hope for a more positive re-evaluation, but probably not for a whole enormous pizza like this. Damn.
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