It was a tight toy night
streets so bright
The world was so thin
between my bones and skin
Another Tuesday... another Taste! This time, it's a dang good one (see what I did there).
Dang Smoke BBQ is actually named for the owner, Dang Quach. Like many BBQ joints, they started out as a food truck operation (back in 2017) and gained enough of a steady following to open a permanent location in Leslieville. They inhabit the old location of burrito spot Chino Locos, which some dork might've also reviewed back in the day.
Not a complicated menu, and the space itself is ridiculously small (a wooden counter with a few seats along the front window is all you get). Should there be another person or two waiting for their food, it's going to be cramped. There is a little bench outside, however.
Also... their front door is very hard to open. Like, it requires a full strength, put-your-legs-into-it powerful yank. I arrived in the middle of a Sunday afternoon and my initial reaction to this unexpected obstacle, knowing that they often close earlier than listed hours because they sell out of things... well your first reaction is to raise in eyebrow in confused apprehension. Later when I was inside waiting for my food, the very same thing happened again to a young lady and her boyfriend. Because it is such a small place/operation (only a FOH person taking orders behind a counter and a BBQ cook behind in the open kitchen) I imagine it's a consistent difficulty to relay the stubborn stuckness of this door (I myself opened it for them, only just to relieve their confusion after a pair of failed attempts... yes yes not all heroes wear capes, some also have food review blogs).
Speaking of that food (and not big heavy doors intent on keeping BBQ goers hungry) I went in with a definite plan, accepting no substitutes. Or rather, I would've had to come back another day instead of accepting a substitute (insert 'The Who reference' here).
This was my first ever time and I was curious about the Mac n'Cheese... but what truly tantalized me most was that brisket sandwich. That was the headliner that pulled me here the most.
Back in the days of when Caplansky's was on College or greasy old (delightful) Mel's Diner was in the Annex slinging that gigantic both-terrible-and-also-awesome Montreal smoked meat poutine... I've always just loved a good smoked meat, in any form, when done right (in those days it was almost always dropped atop a saucy or cheesy poutine but alas I was twenty a long time ago).
There is a certain extra flavour and texture to when a meat is smoked so precisely, and the meat is likewise so well seasoned, of good quality, with just the right amount of tenderness and fat. This particular photo (damn sunny day) is deceptive because the shadows are hiding the true nature of this brisket sandwich. First glance, it looks fairly saucy but perhaps dry or chewy at points. Rather, it is much more the reverse.
The BBQ sauce you get is on the sweeter side... like a good subtly tangy whiskey BBQ sauce... but it is definitely there as an assist not an attraction. No, the brisket dominates this sandwich: Dang Smoke offer additional toppings like mushrooms or onions but none of that for me. At the time I shook those off with the intention of experiencing this brisket at full influence. Next time, I'll likewise shake them off but as mere distractions.
What makes this such exceptional brisket are the dimensions of texture. The flavour is great too, but taste-like an excellent smokey beef brisket doesn't take much to describe beyond: it's an excellent smokey beef brisket. Okay fine... there are some nice touches of rubbed in seasonings along the occasional edges you get in a bite (very sharp but not hot spices) and the tiny hint of the sweet BBQ is important as an extra something... but the texture is the star.
These are your classic thick flat cuts of brisket: the tender parts in the middle and those delectable not-quite-burnt but tougher, chewier, and loaded with a particular fall apart in your mouth taste of well roasted/smoked meat. The smokiness runs throughout, but especially on either horizontal end of each brisket slab. Meanwhile when you're more in the middle of the sandwich, you're deeper into the soft bun and right into the centre of the slow cooked beef, which despite its thickness is still so tender and full of flavour even on a bite lacking fattiness (and this was not an overly fatty sandwich either for the record).
I don't have much else to say. They pull it right out of the foil and slice it to order, and I can see why it runs out quickly. As a sandwich it needs no other frills beyond that meat. I'm sure mushrooms or slaw or onions or whatever you fancy would be a pleasant addition no doubt... but in my mind this is the type of rare beef (see what I did there) sandwich that can stand tall in its well-prepared but also sheer simplicity.
I won't take as long on the mac n'cheese (we all have places to be I'm sure, even me) but I'll start by saying I'm a bit of a mac n'cheese snob. A close friend made (and still does I'm sure) a completely dynamite one for me many times... I can make a pretty darn good one from scratch myself... and way way before that in my very very young days working at the Drake Hotel I got to experience Anthony Rose's version (and the man likes his saucy richness).
Long way of saying: in Mac n'Cheese Land it's tough to really blow me away. Also, is Mac n'Cheese Land a real place? I'd still go.
This one from Dang Smoke... doesn't blow my socks off because I wish it had just a little more to it. Green onions/chives, or an additional earthy cheese... I could've just added brisket as an extra charge which obviously would've done the job but that's cheating.
That said, this mac n'cheese on its own is still quite good when considered purely as a sharable side. From that perspective, there is plenty to enjoy. The bread crumbs? Not just there for show... they give the upper layer a tiny little crunchiness but not to the point of disrupting the creaminess below. The pasta itself is on point, and I do lean on the side of a much creamier mix in my mac n'cheese and this certainly delivers that without the excess of having the noodles just swimming around.
There's some hint of richer, parm-like cheese in here, but the most distinctive element is the mix of that creaminess I mentioned and an occasional thick gooey cheese within. Stretchy and stringy on certain forkfuls. Very nice balance. The hearty portion size is also a nice deal: even without the sandwich it would've been a challenge to polish this off by myself (definitely a good sharable dish), and so a majority of it made a delightful snack later that night.
Everything I'm saying is indeed a positive, as it should be! This is no throwaway Mac on a menu as a forgettable side... spruced up Kraft Dinner this is not. They put as much consideration into this recipe as they do their BBQ it seems. It's still missing that one something... it's so close to being incredible... but as is? Extremely simple, but extremely good.
Coleslaw? Yeah damn it I forgot to try the coleslaw. For shame....
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Overall! Dang Smoke BBQ is... bloody smoking good, I say chaps! Before we leave the flat and meet our blokes at the pub, spot me a few schillings for the extra chips and then a yardie on me! Do they even have southern style BBQ joints in England? I'm genuinely curious. London, maybe?
Anyhow yeah they're truly fantastic, well worth the wait and suspense of a couple of failed attempts on my part to try them, and I strongly recommend trying them too. Their hours are very weird: not open Monday-Wednesday, close early in the evening most days, and they sell out of stuff often (there's usually a sign outside their window to alert people). If I may reiterate... it's a reaaaaally small space, and a small staff as well I imagine. Funny enough as I was preparing to leave with my food, two young women walked in to hand in printed resumes. Printed! Didn't think anyone still did that anymore, never-mind people half my age.
If you want to try them (and if BBQ is your thing you should) be sure to plan significantly ahead or just happen to be in the area, but they are real, real... smoking good. Hehehehe...
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Dark of the Matinee
The Red Letter Media lads have a long and interesting discussion/brainstorm about the decline of movie theatres, why it's happening and ideas how to fix it. Really fascinating, well-thought stuff and done in their typically amusing way.
Coming Soon!
I missed last week (stupid allergies ruined a lot of things last week) but I've got something really fun to make up for it... coming soon! Also no weird work tale this week, either... but I've got plenty more of those too.
Tuesday Tune
An incredible and quasi-forgotten rock record, made in the general era of Disco versus Punk. The guitars on this album are truly something (Verlaine could play, man).
That's all for now! Until next time, whenever it may be... stay cool, be cool, and most of all don't spill that mustard.
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