Friday 23 April 2021

East End Eats XXIV: Mira Mira Diner

 


 

I really have a knack for picking the coldest days of the week to venture out and try these food places. It's a labour of love though! I mean, maybe not that Tuesday Taste Subway sandwich episode... but most of them: labour of love. Especially when you're heading out to try something new that could, maybe, be quite good.

This time I checked out the new Mira Mira Diner at the corner of Kenilworth and Queen out here in the Toronto Beaches. That's been another one of those "cursed locations" you tend to notice when you've lived somewhere for a while. Growing up on Isabella Street just east of Yonge, there was a spot next to the Artful Dodger pub that must've changed about six times between the time I was in Grade Six and when I graduated high school (it was a Korean bar last I recall). Likewise, the corner of Kenilworth/Queen was a St. Louis Wings when I first moved to the Beaches in late 2014. It closed a blink later, sat vacant for at least four years, then opened up as this two floor bar called 'The Big Bruce', with the adjoined upstairs running as a small live music venue called 'The Cut'.

It was a cool idea, and live music is something sorely needed in this neighbourhood especially with the Salty Dog shuttering last winter weeks before the pandemic. Unfortunately, the owner of 'The Bruce' was a bit sketchy to say the least... and by February the landlord had locked him out. Last time I went there I lost my knapsack and never got it back. Not a big loss at all (the bar, not the knapsack. I had a good pair of headphones in there).

Enough backstory. Okay fine a little more... but about the new tenants! Mira Mira Diner is the second location of chef Amira Becarevic, following up the Leslieville Mira Mira (a small corner spot I may have dropped off a resume at in the Beforetimes) and before that Mira Mira had a stall downtown in Assembly Chef's Hall. 

Both active restaurants bill themselves as comfort food with high quality ingredients and the basic menu does reflect that. The Beaches location comparatively seems more likely more utilized as a sit down diner since it has significant patio space (in better future days, of course). Well for now, in I went to put this comfort food to the test. 

I knew I wanted something that seemed a bit more interesting than just trying a chicken sandwich or a cheeseburger, and fortunately they offer the perfect middle ground: a crispy shrimp/cod burger. You can see it in the photo when you look closely how that isn't beef... so if I fooled you... huhaeheheh

It was too cold/windy to eat outside so I had to hightail it home. This didn't do the potatoes here any favours ("crunkle cut coins" by their description) as there was little heat left there. Lousy Smarch weather. Thankfully though, the sandwich wasn't an ice cube yet and while I almost always eat my sides before the burger (crazy talk!), this was for a review and I had to get at the main attraction while it was still warm.

Lets just say I chose wisely. This sandwich is essentially a gigantic fried fish cake and it works, oh baby it works. The texture is on point: crunchy on the outside, but it doesn't start crumbling to pieces once you're progressed within. It holds together its thickness, and yet never tastes dry in any places either... not even once it gets cold... remaining tender throughout. Flavourwise, the cod dominates but you get just enough hint of that sweet salt of the shrimp to know its there and its enough of a presence, at least while the sandwich is still fresh.  

The supporting elements of the sandwich are fairly minimal: just coleslaw, thinly sliced baby pickles, a lemony mayo on a brichoe bun... and there isn't anything that feels lacking. Crunchy veggie with a bit of vinegary zest? Check. Slightly sweet creamy sauce? Check. Soft bun? Check. What else ya want? Maybe if you're feeling something spicy I could see it, but I personally can be fairly simple with my sandwich/burger toppings and this one has everything it needs. I'm seriously impressed.

As for the supporting sides... the potato coins are nicely seasoned but it's hard to judge since they were cold (chilly days close to a lake and no working bicycle... not ideal for this kind of thing). They're like neatly disced (is that a word? it is now) homefries and you gotta get those steaming hot. Still, they weren't chewy or rough either. The side of spicy ketchup was pretty nice. Not really a fan of ketchup at all but I liked how this had some kind of subtle chili kick. There also was a side of coleslaw (their sandwich combos allow you two sides, which is cool). The slaw solo was probably the weakest link here though (not so cool). This could be a personal taste thing, since I didn't mind it on the fish burger at all... but by itself it's a too vinegary for me. I'm a sucker for creamier slaw I've realized, and so this one isn't my bag of cabbage. It has excellent crunch, tastes extremely fresh... but once that sourness hits I can't overcome.        

This has been a longer review than I planned (they usually are, heh) so lets wrap it up! Overall... this was a very damn tasty sandwich and I would gladly get it again sometime. A truly terrific fish sandwich that isn't drowned in sauce or cheese is a rare thing, and this one strikes a terrific balance between multiple positives (crispy fish, texture, crunchy slaw, just enough sweet sauce and a good bun). I might not elect for the combo next time, since those sides weren't quite as strong, but they aren't bad and hey for a review you want to try as much as you can. 

Some final notes: the service was excellent (I know it's just take-out but they were also semi-busy and the two servers were on top of their games taking new orders, updating people waiting, dealing with Uber Eats etc. It was good friendly service and that might not be as easy a gig as you think). Lastly, it was definitely trippy my first time inside after my (hazy tequila) memories of the Big Bruce. That place was dim, aside from some neon lights... Mira Mira is so bright with pinks and yellows that frankly if it weren't for the bar (now a coffee/service station) being in the exact same place I'd have thought it was a different building. It's like in Legend of Zelda: A Link To The Past, when you go from the Dark World back into the Light World. Had to work in a Nintendo reference, of course I did.   

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