Well like a cool Romeo he made his moves
ah she looked so fine
Like a late Juliet she knew he'd never be true
but then she didn't really mind
Upstairs a band was playing
the singer was singing something about going home
She whispered: "Spanish Johnny, you can leave me tonight
but just don't leave me alone"
Another Tuesday... another Taste! My photography was seriously subpar this week (fries in front of the sandwich? Boourns) but some positive news: I'm seemingly back to my summer bar gig (in mid-late August... damn you summer last longer!)... baseball has been kind (the Red Sox can still eternally fuck off though please and thanks)... and I dunno my first vaccination? My shoulder hurts. See you in a month, needle! (ugh needles... might need emotional support next time, seriously).
This week we return to a fast food chain I've covered before, only sampling something quite different this time around. If you're in Canada and watch YouTube way too much like I do (damn you Gordon Ramsay! Red Letter Media! Cinemassacre!) you're probably bombarded by endless ads for this new Nashville Hot Chicken sandwich from A&W. Checking the actual product description, the website doesn't explain much about what specifically makes "Nashville" hot chicken especially unique (which specifically interests me the most) but they provide a thorough list of ingredients used. Cool I guess... avoid the aioli if you have a severe shellfish contact allergy.
I can get a bit deeper than that. Common consensus amongst the online, non paid content edition (you mean KFC is top ten best fried chicken in America? And Popeye's #1? Suuuuuure...) is that Prince's Hot Chicken Shack in Nashville (hey) is likely the origin of this particular brand of spicy and fried poultry.
The story actually seems rather hilarious and embarrassing enough to be at least somewhat true, even if the truth in that origin story is distorted to time and exaggeration, as mythology inevitably is. Regardless of that, Prince's is extremely well regarded (James Beard Foundation ain't recognition thrown around lightly) and their website teases a faded background photo of seriously delicious looking fried wings, then that's all you get. Even their Instagram reveals minimal food photography. Well fine! I guess I'll just have to go to Nashville to know for sure and try this for myself then...
...oh wait, I have a review to finish. Cancel that flight! I certainly can't say A&W nailed this obvious imitation, one ghoulishly designed to lure via surface intrigue over faithful homage. As an actual sandwich though: it's certainly the best fried chicken option I've reviewed on this show thus far. KFC was bland, weird in texture and barely seemed like food. Popeyes is tasty but also so excessively greasy you never feel quite okay after eating it... like your brain can't convince your stomach this was smart.
A&W here... it's acceptable, even kinda good, but a moderate let down considering the potential. The chicken does at least pull apart in tender strands like actual chicken breast, unlike the awful dry minced nature of KFC struggling to resemble meat. Popeye's at least maintains chicken texture, sorta, but again just so soaks your hands in layers of sitting oil, soaked in by heat under a hot light.
This A&W sandwich doesn't cheap on the chicken, it's a worthwhile huge chunk considering the higher price... and it hits a terrific balance between crispiness, tenderness and strategic seasoning. It needs more of the last though, since the biggest weakness here is a lack of any distinct explosive flavour. This is supposed to be based off the concept of Nashville spicy fried chicken yet this offering opts to play it safe and forgoe any memerable punch. Any sauce on this thing barely exists enough to mention, and the pickles are just pickles meant to exist.
For fast food it's a quality chicken sandwich, with enjoyable crunch and balance. The chicken is plentiful and not hidden by the breaded layer.... meanwhile the interior is tender even once cool. For a "hot" chicken though... this just... needs... more. As frustrating a 'B-' grade could be, if useful purpose erupted in distributing those.
The singular spice is in the seasoning sadly (unless their usual chipotle mayo was the second spicy element in which case... booooooo). I don't want my mouth burned off, as do most casual patrons, but just a notable something heat could being this up to the next level. Something that slowly builds with flavour, without aggression, but lets you know "here I am, adapt" by the second bite. This is more like a fried chicken fillet dipped in a watered-down Siracha sauce for colour, the excess dried off quickly and then dusted with spices. Hot fried chicken should linger, either comfortably or slowly insist upon itself if you don't notice.
I just was hoping for a bit more. Honestly this sandwich is perfectly fine, an overly accessible level of heat. Marketable, but no true introduction or promise to the Nashville title. 2022 it is then.
Oh yeah, the fries. They were unimpressive and also fairly cold once I got home, then my attempt to pan reheat wasn't successful enough to salvage them. I'll have to review again (let's say... Tuesday Taste #60) but for now they're just very meh fast food fries lacking texture, with very unseasoned flavour. Far better than McDonald's or Burger King (both revoltingly fake) but a serious notch below Burger's Priest or GG's.
Burnt Ends -- Apparently I'm reviewing burger joints lately. Left hand trying to find the other, etc. My latest was checking out GG's near Woodbine Beach, an attempt at a retro American style burger joint with 60s vibes the dominant theme. Definitely give it a read, I wasn't disappointed.
Tuesday Thought -- The possibility of going back to a job realistically looming for the first time in a year and a half, like being on a payroll, taxes and everything... the mind wanders in directions wondering what the hell I've been doing this past significant span of "free time" in my life.
Much of that wasn't remotely pleasant... what with the thousands sick, fear of being outside, accelerated depression, boredom, isolation, uncertainty of life ever seeming "real" again, then millions sick... well I think you get what I mean.
I can't medal myself with any kind of pandemic achievement story, but truly one of the best decisions I made was at least to focus some of my sporadic creative energy into writing these food reviews. First the local East End Eat ones and now these. It's given me something to do, a concept fun to focus on, and even as we slowly approach some new kind of reality (it still ain't gonna be the same, sorry) I do intend on continuing this weekly because... well fuck it's my show and as long as yall read it I'll keep doin' it, ya jerks! Stay tuned next week for more insults! Seriously, love ya all.
Tuesday Tune -- Shout out to my dad. I love these busy drums that keep the melody steadily moving, speeding up right when the emotion builds... the lovely piano touches adding to a cinematic sense... these tunes remind me of the sweet innocent energy on Van Morrison's Astral Weeks, just with more band. I like more band when they're subtle and smoothly tight like this.
That's it for me this week. Hope you get out and do something you truly love (I hear Baseball is fun... some friend told me). Until next time, enjoy the summer when it's not weirdly smoky outside, be kind to people, be kind to yourself and don't spill that mustard.
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