Another one of those places that if you Google them, the search engine gets confused and gives you false information. In this case, the actual name of the place! (It's "CiCi's" not "CiCi's Pizza & Wings")*. Not only that, but the Google description seems to think they are the Toronto location of American pizza chain Cicis (known for their pizza buffets)... a company which it turns out doesn't even have a location north of Naperville, Illinois (they're scattered throughout a bunch of states but appear to generally be a Texas/Carolinas chain). This is why you just can't take information at face value, especially in the internet age my friends.
(*okay, so while their website just says "CiCi's Pizza" their Instagram does the "& Wings" part. I'm so confused and whatever I'm gonna go with the website and their actual sign on this one)
Perhaps if I ever make it to the American far south (it's gonna be at least four years) I'll try this Cicis chain that has so thoroughly tricked Google. For now, we're staying closer to home and diving into a place that's been a regular staple in Parkdale for over fifteen years.
The CiCi's Pizza story traces back to Minh Huynh, a Vietnamese immigrant who first arrived in Toronto in the 1980s after a regime change his home country (I'm sure you've all heard of that particular conflict). Minh worked a variety of jobs (one was delivering pizzas in fact) and around 2008 saw an old Parkdale pizzeria on the corner of Callender and Queen Street West was up for sale. He and his wife Kim Le bought the place, learned some of the recipes from the previous owners and kept it going.
When in 2016 the couple felt it was time to retire, they passed the business down to their daughter, Diana Huynh. It was Diana's idea, once taking over, to modernize the image of the place and create a social media presence... even commissioning a local artist to redesign their now quite distinctive logo and store front. This proved such a success that the business was even able to survive both having to leave their original location on the corner (they moved a few doors east) and that whole pandemic thing... although from what we've seen a year or so later it does seem pizza restaurants were an economy quite immune to the nastiness of Covid-19.
The whole story is quite charming and the Toronto Star did a nice piece on CiCi's and Diana Huynh about two years ago that goes into a little more detail than I can here. Regardless, this is an extremely well known pizza joint in Parkdale that I somehow had yet to review or even try. Why was that?
Funny enough... during my first Pizza Quest in 2019 (when I thought this mission would stop at 50... hoo boy there was an off bet) I was on this exact same block of west Parkdale to try Amico's (now closed forever). While waiting for my Amico's pie (they were good but hardly the cat's meow so many people insisted they were) I noticed this other distinctive pizza place on the corner with a green exterior and striking logo. I was very tempted to try them too, even peeked in the window... but I think I had to get back to work or catch a rocket to Mars or something. These pre-pandemic memories are hazy don't you know.
I was pleased to see, now in a different place, CiCi's kept that distinct shade of green. It really pops among both the older buildings of Parkdale and on a drab cold winter afternoon where anything colourful feels especially muted.
As you can see, this is a small space with the only three stools and a counter by the front window for seating (and realistically, you're not gonna see three strangers cram in there. It's that tight).
CiCi's does slices, which is good! Alas... I must've arrived at a strange time in the day since the only slice that looked appealing was their Meat Lovers. I know they have a menu of specialty pizzas that offer a bit more variety (much of it spicy) than what I saw here in slice form: a pepperoni, a veggie, a Hawaiian and a deluxe. In retrospect I could've gone into that deeper menu, but I also wanted to try the wings and besides from a reviewing perspective a large fresh slice will usually tell you everything you need to know.
Like a 1930's bank robber I got my loot and didn't shtick around, see? It was freaking cold and a streetcar going directly back towards my east end home was approaching. Nice to see you again Parkdale, even if it was only for like maybe fifteen minutes.
Lets go chicken wings! First off, CiCi's prices are impressively affordable. Twelve bucks for ten wings, in this economy, is an absolute steal (not to mention they threw in an eleventh wing for me). I like spice but didn't want to be both freezing on the outside while burning on the inside... so I went for their hot flavour rather than anything in the "suicide" level.
For a relatively "cheap" chicken wing, these are acceptably decent. I didn't get a lot of any kind of real hotness within the flavour, more of that classic vinegary "Frank's-like" sauce you find at hole-in-the-walls (think cheap wing nights at cheaper pubs).
The chicken itself... a couple of the wings were pretty chewy and dry but otherwise these were pretty solid. Good texture, not overly chewy or tough, the meat slips off the bone nicely, well fried and decent crispiness on the outside. Considering the price this is a positive outcome, though I would prefer a more interesting sauce. You barely get any of that flavour as it is, and it's about as bland a "hot" sauce as it gets. Still quality as far as an affordable chicken wing goes.
Regardless, we're here to talk pie, the main attraction. This is a slice of their meat lovers and... you know I'm not really a fan of meat lovers pizzas in general. At least, not anymore (teenage me would find these words blasphemous). It's just too much... these concoctions are always super salty and heavy, the overall flavour oozing a singular "meat" dimension... almost every pizza joint, fancy or otherwise, offers a variation of this and I rarely ever consider it.
That said, lets discuss this pizza concoction I hate! Seriously though, diving into CiCi's pizza, as a pizza... there are a few elements I quite like and a couple that are pretty uninteresting to me. The toppings? Very generic. You've got bacon crumble on here (speaking of salty) those classic little greasy sausage balls with fennel seeds inside them (Pizza Nova uses those too) and basically a dictionary version of "this is pepperoni". None of this is truly bad, don't mistake me (none of it is stale or dry, fortunately) but after trying like 170 pizza joints I've encountered this same recipe so much I was hoping for something a bit less mainstream.
The toppings are by far this pizza's biggest weakness, because the rest? Enjoyable and quite charming. It's a cheesy and saucy slice, which wins points automatically, and has a nice delicate crispiness on the bottom... giving each bite a terrific texture via its mix of crisp and gooey sauciness. A pleasant slice to eat, even once cooled off... which alone is deserving of praise.
There's nothing really exceptional about the basic elements (dough, cheese, sauce) but they do work together in a nice harmony and are well balanced. Actually, scratch that. There is one thing about this pizza I really like a lot. So... I've noticed that cheaper type pizzas (not calling CiCi's this, it's just an example) tend to overload on the cheese or the dough, or (in the case of Domino's) everything, and you're stuck guzzling their awful sugary sweet tomato sauce. My point is that: bad pizzas will most often have that imbalance. Heavy cheese so the oil and grease distracts you from the blandness (Pizza Hut) or they're heavily bready because nothing else on the pizza tastes like anything (Pizza Pizza).
CiCi's Pizza has that precious balance... and also I really like their tomato sauce. It's a sweeter sauce but not fleeting, plus there's a serious garlic hint in there. Tiny little bits of garlic within the sauce itself (I'm certain of it) stewed in so that the pungency of the garlic is lessened and spread out. This is a little touch but little touches can make all the difference.
Overall! Quality-wise, I can't put CiCi's in the category of "you gotta try this!". From a completely objective perspective, it's a good but not exceptional pizza.
However, if I were a Queen West fella instead of a Queen East one... I suspect CiCi's would be an occasional visit for me. The Charm-o-Meter(patent pending) is off the charts with this place, and it's a genuinely enjoyable pizza! They're a considerable notch or two above your average pizza chain, impressive considering they're using the same toppings but I digress! The sauce is garlicky and wonderful, the light crunch to the slice is so comforting, not particularly oily either considering there is a lot of cheese... CiCi's does way more things right than wrong.
I'd be curious to go back (in non-review mode) and order one of their specialty pizzas to see how those look. Like I said, not a pizza joint you absolutely have to try, but they're in that zone of "I'm glad a place like this exists because they're simple and good".
On their window they have a note from Streets of Toronto proclaiming they're one of "Toronto's Top 100 Pizzas." I would have to agree, although they probably end up somewhere between 90-100 in my rankings. A spirited 'B-' is my score. Definitely would go back.