Thursday, 21 February 2019

The Top Ranked Pizza In Toronto - #75-56


Here we go! Setting out to rate, review and rank all of the very best pizzas in Toronto was a tremendous undertaking, requiring substantial time, effort, willingness to travel and most importantly, an unshakable perpetual love of pizza.

And it was impossible.

At least, impossible in a completionism way of approaching it. There are hundreds of places all over this city that serve pizza in some capacity. And sure, trying every single one and comparing them all against each other in a cheesy, saucey battle royale would logically be the most effective way to properly measure them. That would make trying pizza a full-time job (and hey, I'd gladly do it for the right price) and as it stands now I don't have the energy, the finances or availability to accept this challenge at its most ultimate level. Also for every unknown diamond in the rough you're going to find about three spots that are as bad as they look. Trust me I know.

So to settle on 75 places, and this particular 75 at that? Well it was going to be only 30 (ha ha hah! Those were the days) and once I reached that number I'd be good. Clearly something went wrong, very wrong. More and more interesting places popped up and I had to stop this madness at some arbitrary point, otherwise I'd be in pizza testing anarchy forever. Continuing this project in perpetuity defeats its own purpose, I would say.

I'm certain there's a spot somewhere I didn't get to or never heard of that would crack my top 25. Fine, whatever. What I did was research popular consensus, through social media or various publications, on which places were consistently mentioned among the best or most well known in the city. By this method I'm confident I've compiled a comprehensive list of those famed spots mixed in with others a bit more obscure (with two notable absences, which were inexplicably closed when I visited). This isn't a "best of" list, it's a "best of the best". Decided by me. Damn right.

Finally, since this is about the best pizza in Toronto, I must note that I mean the city of Toronto proper and not the GTA. This means Scarborough and Etobicoke good! Brampton or Markham or Scugog (honestly never even heard of you guys, sorry) not within my range. I'm sure there's some good pizza in those places but I don't drive and it takes me two hours on the TTC just to get to Jane station sometimes.

Anyhow, enough preample ramble. Here's the good stuff!



#75 - Scaddabush (Front Street) -- C-
200 Front Street West
 



When you make a deep list like this one, somebody has to claim that dank bottom. And remember there are hundreds of pizzas in this city, so number 75 here is hardly among the worst in all of T.O.

But this is one certainly closer to the worst than it is to the very best. 

Trying this offering, my first thought was how it reminded me of a frozen pizza trying so hard to be a real boy. A nothing crust offering only crunch over anything resembling flavour; generic Pizza Sauce(TM) with a watered down tomato consistency and a non-existent cheese factor (couldn't even taste it); the toppings (pepperoni, bacon, roasted garlic) decent though lacklustre: the garlic noticeably under-roasted and lacking oil, while this painfully salty pepperoni/bacon was the thing that put the frozen pizza idea in my head. The dominating flavour of it all indeed was salt, mixed with their "Scaddabush Spice" which tasted like (more!) seasoning salt mixed with pepper. Great.

I can tolerate an aggressively mediocre pie sure, if the price fits. I'll eat a frozen pizza from time to time for a couple bucks and this one would qualify as a better one. Unfortunately, this is a twenty dollar pizza. Twenty bucks! With a size that barely matches two slices from most establishments no less. Combine that with ingredients suggesting No Frills flyer day, and that's really it.  Maybe their other food options are more robust, maybe, but as pizza goes I would never seek this one out and I'll never eat it again. It's better than Pizza Pizza but at least there you expect severe disappointment.


#74 - Cora Pizza -- C
656A Spadina Avenue



Are pizza rivalries a thing in Toronto? Why not? As a once UofT student, the first pizza rivalry that popped into my head was: "which is the best of the three revered late-night Harbord slices?"

Cora comes in as the weakest of those three. But not by much, and really the worst experience was beforehand, biking there after work in a flooding rainstorm (I'm really good at picking terrible days to travel to these places, which will become as obvious as this article obsesses with counting down numbers). The pizza itself gives you a 'this exists' ratio of cheese to topping, not much sauce and a forgettable crust. Pizzaville like, with a bit more crisp, less replacement level cheese. Still better than Pizza Pizza.


#73 - The Fill Station -- C
2282 Queen Street East
 


I sought Fill Station's pizza offering for one primary reason: they're easily the closest one to my house. Seriously, Google Maps has them about 220 metres from my front door. 

That considerable convenience doesn't compensate for the fact that this pizza isn't very impressive, though. Brings on healthy amounts of sauce and toppings (pulled pork here) sure, but doesn't bring much overall flavour. It has a soft spongey texture, especially crust-wise, which tastes strongly of flour and little else. To be quite honest it might not have even made the list at all had it not tasted considerably better the next day after reheating (making it much crispier, solving some of those texture problems). Again, it's a place known for cheap beer, big TVs and the occasional police car outside, not killer bar pizza. People don't go there for only that and I don't recommend they do. 


#72 - Queen City Pizza -- C
1056 Queen Street East



Taking the place of the grimey Amato's at Queen and Pape is a definite improvement, but the result is...  not. There's a nice doughy texture (good!), the pepperoni is tasty, not overly salty (good!) and the sauce has a punch of garlic powder to it (decent!). However, despite the suggested thickness of my picture, the cheese is thinly layered and a complete non factor (not good), noticeably overdone in the oven (very not good) and the crust is a thin shell with absolutely nothing going on (also very not good). 

Bonus Time! Two crucial ways I grade a pizza (assuming I don't eat the entire thing first). First is the Cold Test: how good is it cold? The stronger pizzas retain almost all their deliciousness if eaten cold (like sitting around for 1/2 an hour cold, not straight-outta-the-fridge cold). The flavour is still there, just not vividly since it's not melty and saucey in your mouth. 

The other is the ReHeat Test: how much of its initial 'fresh from the oven magic' does it rediscover when reheated at home? (Talking oven/stove pan here, not microwave because C'mon). Queen City sadly doesn't pass either of those tests, because of that overcooked cheese. Still though, it's nice to have a decent slice option on Queen East and I will give them meaningless unique points for cutting their slices into three.  

#71 - Pizza Gigi -- C  
189 Harbord Street
  

A bit of a legendary spot in Toronto folklore for reportedly selling a bit more than just pizza, Pizza Gigi falls right in the middle of the three Harbord options. It's not really better than Cora, just more well rounded. A better crispiness, the tomato sauce is more of a presence (though still lacking) and this particular slice utilized feta cheese generously. Nothing to blow you away, but decent. Also one of those places where the experience of being there is arguably better than the pizza itself, as the entire time I was there (on that same dumb rainy Sunday) multiple regulars came to the counter and struck up long conversations with the owner. Always a nice touch.

And yeah, because of the history surrounding this place, I feel the need to point out that the green stuff there is spinach! As much as something else would make the slice tastier... (I had to get one in you know).


#70 - Calibreze Pizza -- C
3019 Lakeshore Blvd West
 



Not a place I had planned to visit, as my adventure to Mimico for pizza had three other destinations in mind (one which was closed that day, grumble grumble). But when in Rome...ico...

You can't really go wrong with a Hawaiian slice (I'm pro pineapple, obviously. Fget the haters) and Calibreze (Calabrese? Hilariously their sign out front is different than their website) executes one with complete competence. They get a boost over Cora despite strong similarity thanks to some light pepper on the slice, a more present tomato sauce factor and way more pineapple (bite me, haters). Everything else is unremarkable. It's average pizza done with competence. There's nothing wrong with that, just nothing special.

As a brief aside, I'd like to share something I've noticed with most mediocre pizzas: that thick, bland and air bubbled crust. Pizza Pizza has mastered this technique of giving no craps about crusts for a long time, it's why they sell cocaine disguised as garlic dipping sauce (please forgive me, PzPz garlic sauce! I still love you!) But in all seriousness, so many places, even ones high on this list, treat the crust as an after-thought. That's why it's such a treat when you get a place that does it right, either with the right level of seasoning, cooking prowess or other little tricks. 

Anyway now back to the program. 

#69 - Bravo Pizza -- C+
901 Millwood Road
 



Places like Bravo are what helped make this entire thing so fun (that and, you know, eating a lot of pizza). Nestled away in a small plaza in Leaside, Bravo has been around apparently since the 60's. I'll confess I never heard of them until  a random bike ride up into North York, with Bravo happening to be right on the way.

As a pizza, it's similar to many of the "C" levels on this list: unremarkable average pizza made competently. What gives them that slight '+' bump is that there's actually a decent amount of sauce on this fella, and you can tell it's not some Generic-Co Brand of sauce either. They don't win points for using bacon crumble instead of bacon strips (a definite no-no compared to elite level pizza) but everything else is fine and the prices are reasonable (plus it's 'that' place where a small is really like a medium, also nice). Not a hidden gem, but a solid old school spot that stands out in a neighbourhood rapidly transforming.


#68 - Papa Ceo -- C+
651 Spadina Avenue
 



Ladies and gentlemen.... the winner of the Harbord Pizza Challenge! Your prize is.... a bunch of drunken teenagers! Hey baby.... yeah!!!!

Papa Ceo wins the Harbord crown for three reasons. First: the best toppings and creative options of the three. This meat lovers slice, while nothing special, was nicely loaded and I was pleased to discover the sausage juicy and the pepperoni not overly salty. Second: a crust a notch above the others. Better consistency, a crisp yet softness here compared to some of the weaker options on the list. It's not a runaway win, as of the three Papa Ceo probably has the most nonexistent sauce factor, but the rest is enough for a photo finish.

The third reason of course, is memories! Back in my U of T heyday of hanging out in the Annex with my bar friends a lot, Papa Ceo was always a go to option when it was 3:16 in the morning and our beer filled stomachs were desperate. Going back to after all those years brought some nice nostalgia: from the toothpaste food court tables and chairs, to the TV in the back showing European football way early in the morning. This place probably hasn't ever changed and why would it.


#67 - Birky's Bar -- C+
1592 Queen Street West
 




A weird one. My first attempt to try Birky's was tightly between a double shift, and I rode my bike all the way into Parkdale just to discover them inexplicably closed. At 5:30 on a Saturday. Since it looked like it was waiting for a 'For Lease' sign, I crossed them off my list and tried Amico's instead.  
Fast forward a few weeks: I'm back in Parkdale with some minutes to kill before meeting a friend. I walk a while and see that Birky's is indeed open, patrons inside and everything. So, what the hell.

Birky's Bar will definitely be the cheapest pizza on this list, because it was free! Okay.... complimentary with purchase of a pint (a daily special) so I grabbed a Amsterdam Nut Brown and settled in. It's a dark, tavern-like place (the dank, Moe! The dank!), but welcoming to strange pizza tasting outsiders none the less.

The pizza itself is... fine. Standard tomato sauce (though more plentiful than many on this list), a good amount of cheese unevenly dispersed. A very gooey enterprise. Those aspects of it reminded me a lot of those frozen mini pizzas in the grocery store, when it comes out all oozing everywhere. That alone would make this tasty but much lower on the list, if not for the crust. It's the very soft, sourdough like crust sells it for me: slightly sour, thick texture complimenting every bite. Like I said, a weird one. Gotta love the dank.


#66 - Buddha Pie -- C+
514 Annette Street
 


The first serious disappointment on the list. Scaddabush was an angry let down because of inflated price and crappy saltiness. This is not that.

No, I was very excited to try Buddha Pie. A reasonable chance to break into my top 20 was in play. Instead, here's a Pillsbury pizza pop without a top.

Before I dive into what went wrong though, the experience of walking inside Buddha Pie is like walking into somebody's public hippie living room: bookshelves, posters on the wall (obviously topless 70s films) and a worn out couch begging for crashers. Like an art house meets a library, with a pizza kitchen in the back. I've never been anywhere like this before. Rating places on atmosphere alone, Buddha has an excellent chance of winning that.

Unfortunately I must grade the entire picture, and the pizza itself is kinda funky. A soft, rubbery crust (like chewing on blubber) tasting undercooked, yet the bacon on top was far overcooked to almost burnt level and tasted only like "crispiness". The sauce was okay, the cheese works to keep it all together and the mushrooms are nice but barely noticeable. Overall just not... great. Just odd.

I'm willing to give them another chance, though. Only because the atmosphere was so welcoming and bizarre. Maybe it was an off day or something. Maybe they truly are the gem of Annette I always figured they were. Maybe... but now they sit down here on the list.

#65 - Casa Di Giorgio -- C+
1646 Queen Street East
 



Another east end spot, Casa Di Giorgio is a charmingly tiny resto on Queen East near Coxwell, right in the outskirts of the Beaches. At first I wasn't interested in trying them again: I'd tried them in the summer and was underwhelmed (although since that was during a week in which I had no electricity at home, a visit from aliens may very well have underwhelmed me). 

On this second taste, the pizza was exactly like before: cheese either very gooey or with burnt pockets, decent toppings, flavourful sauce (when it can actually break through the cheese enough to be a presence) and an entirely forgettable crust. Better than the sum of its parts though, and they do have one thing I like very, very much: cheap walk-in specials! It's entirely fine pizza best shared with a friend or three in the gigantic nearby Woodbine Park. 


#64 - Regino's (Danforth) -- C+
3331 Danforth Avenue
 



Last summer I put myself in a free agent pool in the Beaches Softball League and caught on with a team very quickly. So quickly in fact I forgot to take my free agency ad off the website, leading to several more offers throughout the summer to join other teams (it's nice to be wanted). Eventually I joined a second team on a part-time basis, and one night between a doubleheader we did a pit stop at a teammate's house near Dentonia Park. Like a champion host he ordered us a bunch of pizzas from Regino's and we were all quite pleased.

Fast forward a few months, when I embarked upon this odyssey and recalled this funtime summertime occasion. I put them on my list (so beautifully small in those days) and got excited.

Well... I will say Regino's is a damn fine pizza when A: you're with similarly hungry ballplayers, B: it's fresh, C: did I mention hungry yet? In terms of general quality though, it struggles with those same problems so damn many places at this point of the list do. Those first few bites are a heaven of doughy, cheesey, tasty topping happiness. But it drops downhill after that cooling point and doesn't recover. This crust has that same problem I talked about earlier, with a 7:1 cheese-dough/sauce ratio, and the toppings are good but ultimately standard fare. The problem with pizzas like this isn't that they're bad, because they're not, it's because they're empty. There's too much of one thing (usually doughiness) at the expense of the entire deal. When you reheat it or eat it cold, that one thing will dominate the entire flavour.

Regino's is a perfectly solid pizza option, all that said. They do garlic as a topping well (a definite plus in my book) and have some killer walk-in specials. You get what you pay for and I wouldn't say no to chipping in for one again.  

#63 - The Green Dragon Pub -- C+
1032 Kingston Road
 



Much like Fill Station lower on this list, The Green Dragon is a sports pub in the (Upper) Beaches not known as a pizza destination (a chicken wing destination though, yes). Also yes, of all the entries on the list Green Dragon is the third closest to my house (about 1.1 km). So if you think I've rounded out my list with places in my neighbourhood that happen to have pizza... you'd be right. Big deal. If you don't like it make your own list! I'd read that. Seriously I would.

Green Dragon has only started offering pizza very recently (I happened to walk by in December and noticed it advertised on their window) and they're on the right track. Using real bacon strips, cooked in that sweet perfect middle ground between rubbery and burnt, is a good start. Nicely thin, not overly salty pepperoni also. The sauce is decent, on the higher end of generic (not an insult, not a compliment) and unsurprisingly they load the cheese on real heavy. You know that cheese you get when you order nachos in a bar? Like a cheddar/monterey jack blend? That's what you get here. Which is fine, I guess. Pick your battles sometimes.

The crust has that crunchy, crumbly attribute you get with a lot of frozen pizzas, but a slight buttery hint there chases away that dreaded fear. Like I said, on the right track but with some work to do (dispersing all the cheese/toppings from the abyss/centre would be something to change). Also, it's better and more affordable (10-14 bucks) than many worse pizzas on this list. 

#62 - Olympic 76 Pizza Cafe -- C++
8 Gloucester Street
 


Pardoning my mugshot of a pizza on the run here, Olympic 76 is a spot in my old neighbourhood I've heard about for a long, long time. Yet, I'd never tried it until a couple months ago, only for the very purpose of this article.

It's a tricky one to judge. For one, it's way too expensive for what you're getting. This was a two topping small that cost just under twenty bucks. And it's not as though it's bursting with toppings either. Second, it looks and tastes a lot like Pizza Nova. That's no insult in these parts, rather an observation upon similar styles.

Running with that comparison, Olympic wins on cheese, topping quality and crust. This is a nice soft pizza, slightly greasy with a good balance of sauce/cheese/dough combining into a tasty thick bite. It doesn't reheat well though (a point against it, as I've harped on a lot with others) and seriously, at that price the toppings have to be more of a presence.

Thinking it through, I think a few factors influenced why those folks in my old neighbourhood thought so highly of it (as in, they'd describe Olympic as the best pizza in the entire city). First of all, this was back in the mid-late 2000s. Before Pizzeria Libretto helped jumpstart the Neapolitan pizza craze in Toronto*, most of what was around was either your local old school spot on the corner, or the big chains like Pizza Pizza (gawdddd no) and 2-4-1 (please gawd no). There are exceptions, many spots higher on this list have been around much longer than ten years sure. Here's the thing, those places are more neighbourhood specific, known mostly to folks who live in those neighbourhoods. Yonge and Bloor in the 2000s, we didn't have any independent pizza place like that (lots of shawarma though) except Olympic 76.

So I can see why Olympic gathers such high regard, especially compared to cookie cutter chain options. Compare that corporate-one-size attitude to the old timey atmosphere of Olympic 76, with checkered table cloth and aged wooden chairs suggesting something positively throwback and untouched by chain store dynamics. The biggest two problems are that it's expensive, and that pizza options in this city have so dramatically improved, it;s left Olympic somewhat behind in that regard as a top notch option. Try it yourself sometime though, I insist. Spots like this (particularly with the gutting of Yonge street now) don't last forever. 


*yeah yeah yeah, I know Terroni and others existed well before that. I'm arguing Libretto used an excellent business model and savvy promotion to make themselves into such a destination and most importantly a brand, and others followed that lead.


#61 - Sicily Pizza -- C++
2438 St. Clair Avenue West
  


I mentioned with Bravo how places like that are what made this adventure so fun. Places like Sicily are why I wanted to do it in the first place.

Sicily is the kind of place you could easily pass by a hundred times and completely miss it. Tucked in the corner of a plaza, beside a gas station near Runnymede and St. Clair, the only clue anything is even there is an unflashy board on the fence of a parking lot, advertising their insanely cheap walk-in specials. It's a spot you only know if you're a pizza hungry, likely non driving resident of the immediate area. Which in 2011, basically described myself and a bunch of junior/high school students. 

It's a place I have a personal connection with (my closest pizza joint when I first moved out of home? Damn right) and you might think that would tarnish my judgement a little bit. It did, as going in again after many years I actually thought it was going to be worse than I remembered, and in fact had mentally reserved a spot lower on the list for them (though my kind words of nostalgia would have remained).

Instead, here's a pizza that is always shockingly good, especially when you get past those scary low prices. There's something with really cheap pizza that makes you anticipate disaster (and rightfully so), but Sicily works because their dough and crust are at a high level. The cheese and toppings, meh. But the dough is soft, chewy and tender, pleasant with each bite and doesn't run stale even after going cold or reheated (like so many others do). And it's so damn cheap. Few other spots give you this kind of bang for your buck.


#60 - Bitondo's Pizzeria -- C++
11 Clinton Street
  


Yeah, this one's gonna hurt me. I know. Probably the most legendary old school pizza in all of downtown Toronto, well known to anybody who has either lived near College or frequented any of the many bars in that area late at night. A recent coworker of mine even told me this was her very favourite pizza in all of Toronto, and I'm sure she is not remotely alone. So bring it on, disagree with me here. They're not even in my top 50! 

Here's the thing though, I do like Bitondo's a lot. I've described certain places as having an atmosphere that adds so much to the experience of getting a pizza there, and Bitondo's is near the top of that list. Much like Olympic 76 and Sicily, Bitondo's is like entering a place completely immune to the passage of time and aggressively so. When I recently went (for this article of course) I couldn't help but chuckle as the older cashier casually argued with the even older delivery driver, the kind of argument married couples have had for centuries and will continue indefinitely until the end of our universe. The place just screams character at you, from the old diner-like menu above, the retro tables and fridges and arcade machine table (I think) crammed into the little place. It is a legend for a reason, and long may it be so.

Yeah, but the pizza. It's good! It is good and flawless... but there isn't anything more to it. Bitondo's will give you that pristine old school slice at an almost old school price (four bucks here is better than the standard five now) and it is so wonderfully huge and reheats perfectly in an oven. What I'm saying is here's a good pizza in every way: solid cheese/sauce ratio, surprisingly versatile dough and crust for a thicker offering. Like I said, no flaws. There are pizzas beyond this point that have more glaring weaknesses, but also take a higher spot because they have something great about them. Bitondo's is good pizza, with unforgettable atmosphere. A winner and a Toronto institution. On this tough list though, it needs more than just good. 



#59 - Za Pizza Bistro (Adelaide) -- C++
288 Adelaide Street West
  


Za is the first major entry on the list that advertises itself as one of those "make your own pizza" kind of places. By this they mean a custom quickly cooked pizza (because beyond Terroni, most places will at least let you substitute ingredients and make it your own) and you can even watch them do it and suggest how much of a certain thing you want on it. Clever idea really, if done right.

My experience trying Za is really a hilarious one. I had finished work downtown and one of my coworkers, aware of my insane pizza quest, suggested we check out a spot together. It was a miserably cold, windy and snowy Toronto evening, making the four block trek feel longer than that slow shift had been. My associate is more of a purist and went for something closer to a Margherita (I think) while I went for a duo of sausage and garlic. I was fairly impressed: a good amount of cheese to sauce, good slices of pre-cooked sausage that weren't too greasy, complimentary dips and a reasonable price (14 bucks-ish). 

The major flaw of the pizza, and one flaw that will pop up again a few more times, is that cornmeal base. Cornmeal is a way some pizza chefs will use to maintain consistency with the raw dough as it cooks in the oven, so that it doesn't stick on the inside. This might just be me, but I can't stand it. If it is too prominent, it gives the pizza this constant grating crunch in your mouth, like a bunch of tiny sand pebbles floating around while you're trying to chew. I don't even like bread that has grains in it, I'll chew on that stuff for twenty minutes in severe discomfort waiting for a chance to spit it out. So it's probably me with this cornmeal stuff, sure. This is my list though and to me that's a big weakness of Za.

Before we leave though, I'd be a damn writing fool if I didn't mention the climatic punchline of my Za adventure. While my coworker and I were waiting for our pizzas to be ready, another of our coworkers, who is a fair bit older than us, happened to be walking by in the freezestorm when he saw us inside and came in to join us. Za (like similar places that do this customizatron) offers a flat price for as many toppings as you want, which is what our friend did here. When he sat with us, pizza in hand, he brought a creation with tomato sauce, mozzarella, roasted garlic, pineapple, olives, roasted red peppers, onions and ham. I didn't try it despite his generousity (onions and I are enemies) but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't curious. Damn was I curious how that one worked out. 


#58 - Amico's Pizza -- C++
1648 Queen Street West
  


This one might piss off some of my Parkdale friends, but I'm an eastender now and I've already rated several spots near my house lower than this one, so don't dispute my meanness as unfairness. 

Amico's and I go back. When I worked at the Drake back in the late 2000s (memories!) sometimes we would be working real late nights, like 5pm to 5:30am kind of stuff. Occasionally on the real crazy ones, management would buy a bunch of pizzas for the staff around 4am or so, whenever we actually had enough time to take a break and take a bite. Thing is, those days in Parkdale (or West Queen West or whateverthefuk) the only pizza spot open that late and that would deliver, was Amico's. So they always have a spot in my younger self's hungry, hungry heart.

After nearly a decade I went back, during that inbetween shifts thing I mentioned during my Birky's review. It's classic Parkdale, simultaneously looking like a bar, an old school Italian restaurant (checkered tablecloths) a dive and yet also a family friendly, bring your grandmother with the little ones kind of spot. The best thing is that it doesn't try to be any of those specific things, it just is. To channel my inner Holden Caulfield, so many places want you to think they're something and try so hard to make you think it. Amico's ain't that.

The pizza...? Some things work. The prices (two topping small for over twenty) does not work, but those said toppings do. Bacon on pizza is a good test for me and crumble (bad) usually suggests a spot's overall quality. So finely cooked bacon, and well sauteed mushrooms was a pleasant occurrence for this pizza writer, as was the plentiful amount of said toppings. Expensive sure, but they don't short you that's for sure.

The biggest flaws are the price (they have cheap specials certain nights so... there's that) and mostly the dough. Mushrooms can be fluid sure, especially in this quantity, but the middle of the pizza became soggy right as I jumped into my second slice. Considering the thickness of the crust, the consistency of the fundamental base of the pizza wasn't... um... consistent. Too weak in the centre. Don't think I'll go back, frankly, but it's far for me. Won't say no to one though.

#57 - Pizza Nova (Beaches) -- C++ 
1928 Queen Street East (among many locations)




 
If I were a man less than 100 percent confident in my opinions and my writings thereof, I'd feel an unstoppable pressing against my very soul to explain this, and ranked so far ahead of legends and neighbourhood locales strongly loved and defended by loyal patrons, especially when slighted in the face of a corporate presence. If I were such a man.

Anyway, lemme explain please please please please please please.

In complete seriousness though, this call I feel the need to justify, but is easily justifiable. I already wrote about Nova a few months ago and praised them, now here we are within my top 60 and here's Nova. To be totally honest though, Nova would be on just the outside of the top 75 looking in if not for one thing:

The garlic pizza.

Seriously. Nova has the best garlic of any pizza outside the top 20. You get a medium walk-in special for ten bucks, get garlic instead of pepperoni (they'll gladly do it, garlic is waaaay cheaper than pepperoni) and go to town. It's plentiful: dime sized chunks spread all over while nicely oily and roasted, adding another texture and amazing smell to an otherwise decent but unremarkable pie. Nova has a decent crust (needs dip though), very good sauce with chunks of stewed tomatoes here and there (needs to be more of it!) but very, very lackluster cheese. It's like a coating and reheats so much worse than the rest of what is there. The garlic changes that, enhances it. You might still be visiting Uncle Heartburn eating it the next day (Nova does that anyway I find), but those garlicy burps will remind you of a delicious experience nevertheless. Maybe save date night for the next day though, or the day of. 


#56 - Castro's Lounge -- B--
2116 Queen Street East
  


The first B! It's a weak B though, at a place that wins way more points for atmosphere and coolness than it does for pizza. As a pizza though, it's very satisfying but dear god I cannot eat that much cheese. Not a lie, I had planned to make a pasta the next day and thinking thriftily (to be generous), I grabbed a good 40 percent of the cheese off this pizza, put it in a napkin for myself and goddamn there was STILL TOO MUCH CHEESE ON THIS DAMN THING! I don't like to yell but it looks like you could dive in and take a swim, not that I'd recommend it since they don't have a lifeguard on duty.

It was an enjoyable pizza though (once I'd liberated the excess curds). The sausage was tasty, good hearty sauce and the crust soft even once the pie had cooled off. Castro's is one of my favourite spots in the Beaches for their live music, cool bands and great garage vibe and craft beer selection. I wouldn't seek them out for their pizza, but being there and potentially being hungry I'd order one again (maybe vegan this time though).

Next time... the list gets tighter. More pizzas! 



 

Friday, 26 October 2018

Rating Toronto Pizza Chains


Pizza! Now that I have your attention, lets talk about this delicious, magical thing. Despite the versatility of pizza as both a meal and/or snack, there are lots of ways to make a wicked pie and even more ways to screw one up. I'm no stranger to the dough, cheese and sauce Triforce, and as such I'd like to share my thoughts on some of my favourite (and much less fun, my least favourite) pizza joints I've encountered here in the city of Toronto. Starting with... the major-ish pizza chains available here in T.O.

First off, my admittedly flimsy criteria. For the purposes of this article, I'm more interested in comparing specific big money pizza chains against each other in a ring of judgemental fire, rather than including spots in Toronto that have multiple locations but are relatively independently owned and maybe provide much more of a "sit down" dining experience and product. This is why I'm not including prominent spots like Pizzeria Libretto or North of Brooklyn in this piece. Instead I will save my thoughts on those particular spots and many others for another article coming soon (!) in the near future.

As for my grading system and what I'm looking for: firstly I'm not grading on a curve. The grades are A through F and based comparatively against the highest ranked pizza I've ever had (which spoiler! not on this list). What I'm looking for is overall quality in taste, ingredients, toppings, leftovers value, and entries also gain/lose points on nostalgia, personal experiences, unique aspects of their brand and potentially just plain old cheapness.

Now without further delay! Here in 2018, are my Toronto pizza chain rankings.

Blaze Pizza ~ (B--)



A relative newcomer as a Toronto pizza option, Blaze is a California based chain that advertises itself as Chipotle Mexican Grill meets pizza: a rapid fire pie that is still made to order and has tons of ingredient options and combinations. Heck, even LeBron James is involved as a promoter/investor. 

The concept itself you have to admit is a clever one: offer a flat rate for a one-size pie and allow hungry customers to choose their own sauce and toppings without (mostly) additional charge. It's not quite Kramer's idea for a pizza joint where you make your own pie (cucumbers???) but it's about as close as you can get without getting unqualified people sticking their hands into a 900 degree oven. Add in the fact that these pies are ready to go usually in under five minutes and you've got that sweet spot between fast food and spontaneous freshness.

The pie itself (the reason I'm writing this after all) is light, fluffy and tasty, a good balance of cheese and sauce (plus get more or less of either if you please). It's super thin, thus allowing the faster cook time, with a modest crust consistent in texture with the dough. As a result it will noticeably bubble,  where you get an occasional air pocket in the middle of your slice (a disadvantage to a thin pizza cooked super fast), by far Blaze's biggest weakness as a product. Plus as a thin pizza, with air pockets potentially inside, you go for take-out it's gonna get cold fast. 

There is reheat value though (if you don't overnuke it) and meanwhile the toppings aren't your run-of-the-mill greasy spot on the corner options. They've got some goods (mini meatballs? roasted garlic cloves? giddy up). They also offer arugula as a topping and have the good sense to tell you they put it on after the pizza has already cooked (because lets be real, lots of well meaning pizza slingers can make that mistake).

Overall, as far as taste goes it is basically equal or just slightly above the next entry on my list, but the current uniqueness of their operation and the wide range of topping options gives them the bump. Blaze is my highest ranked Toronto pizza chain here in 2018.


Pizza Nova ~ (C++)



So I'll get this off my box here right away: I'm a bit of a Nova fan boy. I've had conversations with various folks over the years (cooks even) whom prefer Pizza Pizza over Pizza Nova, which personally strikes me as a committable offense.

Now sure, a problem you get with a chain with dozens of locations like Nova is that some are for whatever reason not up to snuff (see my comments about Pizzaville later). And that's totally fair. However, to complete that Pizza Pizza/Pizza Nova argument, I propose that a bad Nova is the exception, while a good Pizza Pizza is likewise an exception. I've had disappointing pies at both, but Nova does not disappoint as a method of operation. 

As for the pizza itself, it's the little things I like. Affordable? Yes sir (their 1 topping walk-in special is an undersold steal and definite go-to for me). The sauce has big bits of soft tomato, the crust is often firm but crisp and not overly chewy, their bacon option is actual bacon strips (not crumble) and they don't need to put a ton of cheese on in a vain attempt to deceive you it's good. Also, it's not stupid greasy and reheats really really well if you're willing to use the oven. Overall, it's a no-brain option if it's late at night and your alternative is Popeye's chicken that's been sitting under a lamp for seven hours. Bonus points for their garlic option, as when you order it as a topping you get big chunks of oily, soft roasted garlic all over your pizza. It's magic, baby.


Pizzaiolo ~ (C) 




Five years ago this would have been probably a solid B or B-. But for some reason, as seemingly almost every downtown corner here in Toronto opened up a location, the quality of their slice has noticeably slid. There's a certain taste in the dough you get, a kind of olive oil wheaty texture, that is consistent with all of their pizzas and I guess I don't much care for it. On top of that, they are a bit one dimensional in terms of what to go for. Their whole pizzas are pricey (compared with other options) and rather unimpressive in both size and taste. Slices are their main appeal.

Not to slag on them endlessly, there are some very good qualities with Pizzaiolo. Their slice options are creative and diverse (though unchanged over the years), they like Nova use bacon strips instead of crumble, and a single slice is both affordable and satisfying. The crust isn't anything special but the quality of their toppings is solid, they use good sauce and utilize multiple kinds of cheese very well on their offerings. For nostalgia's sake, the location at Jane and Bloor was once a popular stop for me after baseball games, as well as the Yonge/Bloor location when I was inbetween afternoon classes at U of T. Many a good pie was had there and then.

Overall, my complaints are that they haven't really evolved since sprouting so many (so many!) damn locations, the quality of the product has slipped and their full pizzas are not worth the cost or the time. Otherwise it's an entirely acceptable choice.
 

Mamma's Pizza ~ (C)




Another nostalgia story: the first time I tried Mamma's I was probably in my early teens, maybe a bit younger. I went to the location near the Toronto Reference Library (still there I'm certain), had a pepperoni slice and was convinced for a significant period afterwards that this was my favourite pizza of all time, and thus THE best pizza anywhere.

I no longer think that (shocker) and I doubt Mamma's would even make my Toronto Top 20 list if I were to write such a thing (spoiler). But, they'll do you decent. It's oily as hell though (and it loses points for being aggressively so at times) and so razor thin that a solitary slice isn't likely to kill those hunger beasts. As such it holds a unique place among Toronto pizza chains, in that it thrives for that more "gourmet thin crust" avenue than the others. Certainly imperfect, yeah, but good within that imperfection.

Another funny story. I had a shift at noon this past New Years Day and had no change for the streetcar. The closest spot was the Mamma's location in the Beaches, so I popped in for a slice (obviously fresh at 11am) and was told by the fella behind the counter that I was the very first customer of the year. By unrelated chance I haven't been back since, but I really want to pop in again around maybe 11:55pm on December 31st and bookend the story.

Papa John's ~ (C-)



This is where it starts getting tough. Having American fast food chains up here in Canada ain't anything new, and if anything there are a few more I wouldn't mind seeing establish a presence (cough cough In-N-Out). 

American pizza chains are not quite that, since I strongly think that a lot of them flat out suck. Not American pizza per say (because a lot is @#%$&*#@ good), but a lot of their pizza resto chain imports are really damned unimpressive. Papa John's isn't exactly an exception, just that it has a "best of the rest" quality to it. There's an appealing softness on each bite, the crust is gently oily and they don't skimp on the cheese. But it's nothing special. The tomato sauce is generic and sparse, the toppings are generic and blandly delivered, and it's the type of pie that's already slightly overcooked when you get it so the reheat value is minimal.

(Speaking of minimal reheat value, a consistent trend you get with pizza of lesser quality is just that. As such I'd like to introduce the First Bite Rule. Think for a moment: you're hungry, and here's a pizza, any pizza, fresh steaming out of the oven and the cheese is gooey, stretching in strands as you lift up that first slice for the first bite. Honestly, the majority of pizza is at least good in that initial moment. It takes some impressive blandness/awfulness to disappoint there. And some are up to the challenge).

Pizzaville ~ (C--)



My thoughts on Pizzaville have fluctuated wildly over the years, and at this point are probably the lowest they've ever been. The location (now long gone) at Yonge and Dundonald was a gem of a discovery for me in my high school days: a cheap good slice with a great crust and lots of cheese and authentic sauce (bits of soft tomato and everything!). 

But for whatever reason, not every location possesses the same level of quality that my long lost high school one did. I grabbed one of their pickup specials recently and while tasty at first, the overload of bland "cheese" sent my stomach barking at me. The sauce level is also not as generous as before, with a tomato bit here/there almost just for show, the crust quickly stale, and the whole ordeal left an experience of having eaten pizza at it's most competently generic. They promote a variety of interesting toppings and execute them on the pizza in a similarly generic fashion, giving an initial excitement that fades after the first few bites. This grade would be much lower if not for those previous pleasant experiences nearly a decade ago, making me suspect this ranking has only one direction to go.

Domino's ~ (D+)



Credit where it's due: their walk-in special is damn cheap. A small pie for under five or six bucks (depending on the location) is a steal of a deal. And the pie itself will be filling. But man, of all the pizzas I've ever had in my life Domino's is the one you gotta eat all of within like twenty minutes. Once it goes cold, it's over my friends. Even a toaster oven can't save it. Maybe it's the big, thick crust, or the equally monstrous layer of solid, cheesey cheese designed to taste like Cheese(TM), but it doesn't reheat even slightly well. You're more likely to burn it and still have cold cheese in the middle, than to recapture its best, freshest moment.

The rest is what you expect. Sauce for the sake of sauce, insert-a-topping here. You know the game.
  

Pizza Hut ~ (D+)



This will probably piss off some folks, because I know some of you love this stuff. Sure, but again the First Bite Rule is in raging effect. Similar to Domino's, but even more drastic: EAT THIS MOF FAST SON! Because once it goes cold, it's over. Unlike Domino's, which is too thick and bready to reheat properly, Hut is way too damn greasy. You microwave it or oven it, and you're heating pure grease everytime. It could be steaming like crazy, too hot to eat, yet the middle is lukewarm at best. And then all the oil is cooked, the pizza tastes weird and bland, and it still goes cold in two minutes.

As for the pizza itself, it's about as good as a cheesy, thick greasy pizza with barely any sauce can be. It has a certain taste (the grease I figure) that makes it unique among the other offerings on this list, and I'd be lying if I said I didn't enjoy it at birthday parties when I was a kid. People clearly love it and I'm not saying that's bad or anything; like what you like to eat. Me personally, I just don't think it's particularly good pizza. In almost any way.

Panago ~ (D)



You know those mini pizzas that are sold in the frozen food section? Sized like an old CD-ROM, they usually come in packs of two or four, the flavours either cheese, pepperoni, deluxe, and the instructions say to bake them in the oven but they're perfectly fine (extra gooey in fact) if you zap them in the microwave? That's Panago.

But enough of me revisiting Grade Eight, this pizza has a lot not going for it. First, it's way too damn expensive for what you're getting! Seven bucks for a "personal" size pie that's smaller than most of the slices on this list. If by personal you mean "I'm personally offended at the size of this thing", then yeah, that's accurate. Second, the overcook problem. I don't mind some spots of cheese on my pizza that are a little more crispy or well done than others, it adds flavour and character. But this whole thing is covered in those brown blotches, leaving a thin burnt layer your teeth have to chomp through on each bite. And third, did I mention the size/price ratio? 

It's not all completely bad. The dough is oily sweet, the sauce surprisingly flavourful (if mass produced) and... um... they're a Canadian company? Overall, it's a weird combination of Domino's and Pizza Hut, mixing the strengths and weaknesses of those two pies into this weird hybrid. Overcooked cheese of Dom's, the oozing of oil/grease of Hut. But it's not as good as either of those because even when it's fresh, the cheese doesn't string off each slice because it's already done to a crisp. Plus.... seven bucks? Come on. 
 
Amato ~ (D)


  
This one is a personal vendetta of mine. In terms of style, Amato is very much a poor man's version of Pizzaiolo. They feature some interesting slice options (more so than the remaining entries on the list), their hours appeal to those hungry night travelers in need of some sustenance to combat the beer blues, and it's cheap. 

One of my complaints about Pizzaiolo was how their dough/crust has this weird oily, wheaty taste that catches up to you after about halfway. Amato has a similar effect on me, except that feeling isn't taste driven, it's biologically driven. On three separate occasions (completely sober, as a disclaimer) an Amato slice has made me extremely sick, and their product has not stayed in my body particularly long. On that alone they should be much further down my list, but on taste alone it's entirely "meh". Greasy, uninteresting, a stiff crust and seriously lacking in sauce. I'm not a fan at all, and it blows my mind a friend of mine in the west end prefers a nearby Amato over even more nearby King Slice. Lord help us all.

Pizza Pizza ~ (D-)




Ah.... hello old nemesis.... I'm going to enjoy this...

A friend and I have argued that some Pizza Pizza locations are significantly better than others. As the dreadful Beaches outpost has taught me, that is surely true. But Pizza Pizza at its best, it's complete absolute best! Is merely OK. Most of the time, it's a damn cardboard disc with cheap cheese and sauce haphazardly dumped on top. There is nothing they offer that even approaches above average: the pepperoni is flavourless, the cheese and sauce there really just for show, the crust barely edible without that garlic dip (okay, that stuff is dangerously above average) and the prices (beyond a random medium pep special) aren't even reasonable considering the quality consistently on display. If you're desperate, I get it. I've been there. I've eaten way too many of their chewy, hollow panzerottos and hated the universe every time. But we grow, we evolve. We can move on.

Two tales to tell here. First, I ate Pizza Pizza almost everyday for about two months back in 2006. I was 19, working on Queen West and at the time there were legitimately no other options around there. I tried everything on the menu, gradually resenting it and myself more and more on each occasion. Everything I ate tasted exactly the same, every single time, like I was trapped in a time loop. Every slice, each chicken wing, the same amount of cheese, sauce, the same portions of everything, all that same flavour. I had to escape, I had to break free somehow ------

Second tale, is really just go down to the States and ask someone if they've ever had a Pizza Pizza pizza. Or don't. They don't need or deserve the free advertising.

Little Caesar's ~ (D--)



Good god. I tried it once back in 2011 and probably should again (at least for the purpose of this article), but man I really, really don't want to. It was BAD, folks. Real bad. 

Some people say that bad pizza is like bad sex, that even when it sucks it's still good. To those people I feel the upmost sorriness for, because clearly not only is your sex life bad, but you're eating shitty pizza on top of that? Brutal.

The main problem I remember when I tried it was how assertively generic it tasted. Lots of bad pizza will try to hide behind huge amounts of cheese or sauce, with varying results. Caesar's doesn't even go for that. Instead it's not much cheese, not much sauce, and barely anything else either. I mentioned earlier how Blaze is trying to combine fast food with a good pizza experience and we'll see how that plays out over time. This here is the case of how it goes horribly, horribly wrong. Their "Hot N' Ready" special is the nadir of a pizza waiting for you as you walk in. I honestly couldn't even finish it, I was so appalled by how offensively bland it was. But it gets worse...

2-4-1 Pizza ~ (F)




Life is too short, people. Get a couple extra bucks and get something that doesn't taste like Groundskeeper Willie's retirement grease. 



(all photos found via Google Search, I do not own or claim to own any of them.)


 

Monday, 2 July 2018

Again, Darkness Rises


When you feel
that sadness coming on
A blanket of blankness
and you know what it is
So you think it through,
think it tough
Confront how pointless it is
that its timing is meaningless
Detail how it has strangled
the twinkle in your eye
within a very last breath
But the darkness strengthens anyway
until you're again
completely smothered in its shit
And you think this time
you weren't good enough
vigilant enough or determined enough
And maybe you think
you'll never be good enough

Saturday, 9 June 2018

Caught Lookin'


Look this way
Look that way
Look another way
Something is happening
When you're looking the other way

Look this way
Look that way
Look another way
Close your eyes
You still see what they tell you to see

Empty Wallets


Fighting feelings
the deck is shuffled
an empty wallet
the tables' prize
Loneliness gives
a fraction of
the amount it takes
or steals, depending on the day
Fighting facts
the deck is stacked
a full wallet
the unattainable prize
Loneliness grabs
a fraction of
the amount of confidence
needed to survive a day

Friday, 8 June 2018

Deepening The Divide


Doug Ford is the premier of Ontario, with a majority government. Let that sink in. Or if you're like me, don't let that sink in and drink several drinks to escape the inevitable instead.

But I'm not writing here to disagree with the politics of Mr. Ford (as much as I emphatically do), but rather to peek at what got us to this point. Not the point of his dumb luck bumbling his way to this high office, but the machinations that led enough of the electorate to actively propose this as a legitimate solution to their problems.

Politics has never been a game for the timid, nor for the one unwilling to get their hands a little dirty. It can turn allies into rivals, friends into betrayers, honest intentions into false hollowness. That's the nature of the game, the contest of ambition triumphant. But the players in the game have changed. In a very serious way, through the relatively recent prominence of social media, the electorate now have the larger, more sweeping voice than the politicians themselves.

Think about it for a moment. People running for office can only say so much behind a podium, on a televised debate, or repeat a platform message so much through sponsored social media. That's a very limited exposure compared to what we citizens post and share daily on those same social media outlets. A candidate can have a prominent social media presence, sure, and be sharp with all the latest methods of getting a message out there; but even with all that, it will shrink in comparison to what is shared among countless intersecting groups of people whose eyeballs constantly scroll screens everyday.

And the name of the game isn't just getting the message out there, it's manipulating a message for mass consumption.

The concept of 'Divide and Rule' (or 'Divide and Conquer') is a strategy that dates back thousands of years throughout human history, in conflicts upon every continent. It is an extremely effective strategy, likely why we still see a heavily modified version of it still used prominently in these times.

This is about the exchange of information between us consumers of content. See, the internet is very much a 'Wild West' in regards to information because unlike most of established print media or television media, there aren't factual standards to abide by. I myself am writing these very words on a forum which will be published by the internet for all to see potentially (ambitiously), and there are no standards of truth and misinformation to which I much follow before that availability can be made real.

Freedom of the press, online or otherwise, is a good thing because this is an opinion piece and I am not presenting this as news. And here's the problem: not all sources are as honourable and forthcoming about that as me (fucking right) and many indeed disguise political agendas or opinions as actual, factual, important news stories that your eyeballs need to absorb or digest. And if you dress a crooked mule with rotting teeth and a bad temper up with fancy clothes to make him look legitimate, some people will believe he's really a stallion.

This is really about manipulating and controlling the message. Political candidates can only reach us so much by the limited exposure they're capable of, but through other mediums or affiliated groups (Ontario Proud really reeks of this, but all sides of the political spectrum are guilty also) they can push agendas or attack opponents just by sheer presence of message. Many political parties have rightly surmised that on social media most people will tune out a message directly from them. But from an affiliate that with the right clothing seems to be independent? They might be more willing to at least listen, or perhaps even agree and share. And of course, those "affiliates" can write whatever they want in an effort to sway potential voters/supporters, in a way official party outlets simply cannot. Because for them there's nothing on the line, no serious reputation to maintain, little repercussion. The internet age.

The internet itself is not a wand of enlightenment nor is it a weapon of brutality, it is simply a tool. A tool we have created and has grown too quickly for us to understand or to know what to do with it. Like any tool, it can be used to construct or destruct and in the matter of politics it is hard to argue that its powers have not been of destruction.

Sullying the name of free speech: the internet has been intentionally used in this way to spread vague or untrue information with the singular intention of disrupting or influencing the ideas of others. And in that reality not only does it become so much more difficult to dilute truth from the murk of the swamp, but within that murk one untrue message can seem more true than others. Maybe so much more true that you dig your heels deeper, certain you've found the gem beneath the sludge. A real truth in this uncertain world of "fake news". And the more disagreement on this from friends or family, the greater the divide between us grows.

This is how extremism gains strength, with two sides of an issue breaking apart so much that they go in opposite parallel directions. The more they pull apart, the harder it becomes to bring it back close enough to actually have a reasonable discussion about issues. And this is what concerns me most: the discourse itself. Again, politics has never been a pretty business, but our disagreements should not be taken as personal attacks. Many politicians themselves who strongly disagree with one another can look past those differences of opinion and still be cordial with one another.

And maybe that's what the election of Trump and likewise Doug Ford tells us: a lot of people don't want that cordial discourse anymore. Someone who doesn't "play by the rules", a "man of action", an everyman who despite massive inherited wealth always wants to look out "for the little guy" without care of trampling established normality. Such extreme "virtues" of these figures only deepens that divide between us, to the point where you're either part of the team or an active opponent against it.

With increasingly extreme views it becomes nearly impossible to only partially agree, and toss in a smokescreen of questionable facts and easily disputed claims to an electorate mass-consuming social media, and an existing divide will only deepen.