Keep believing the things
that you tell yourself
Everyone needs something
they can tell themselves
To hold onto cause after all of it's said
and done will you know
Another Tuesday, another Taste! Oh yeah. After doing pizza (and beer!) last week it's time to mix things up a bit... really dive into something new, something we definitely haven't reviewed here on the TT... a fried chicken sandwich!
How has such a popular food item slipped under my radar? Well it's.... sorry what's that? We have reviewed a fried chicken sandwich before? Multiple times you say. To the point of madness, you say. Damn, after like 38 of these you'd think we'd be more on top of things... guess it's time to fire all of my many assistants... one moment please...
All kidding aside, I'd been curious to try Dave's Hot Chicken for quite some time. And, seeing as I recently tried Chica's out in The Junction (which was damn amazing) and also want to erase the KFC Double Down from my mind (not damn amazing)... it seemed like an ideal moment to move onto Dave's.
There are now three locations of DHC here in Toronto, one short of my usual criteria of needing at least four to qualify for the Tuesday review. However, there are at least a dozen more throughout the United States, mostly in southern California, Texas and a couple scattered about in Michigan and Illinois. Their story is pretty cool: basically four friends (including the titular Dave, a trained chef) started up a food stand pop-up in an East Hollywood parking lot and thanks to online buzz became an overnight sensation.
Lets see how this sensation has translated up north. I went to their new spot in Leslieville, exactly where the beloved Stratengers pub used to be, and walking inside was definitely weird as hell. Where the pool tables were is now closed off by newly built walls, making this new interior significantly more narrow and tighter than my old post-softball game watering hole once was. At least they've utilized the upstairs as a seating area, which was an often forgotten and neglected section of the departed pub.
I looked up their menu online beforehand and was baffled by the bare simplicity of it, assuming it to be a website bug of some kind. Nope, instead it really is pretty straight forward once you wrap your brain juices around it. They offer chicken tenders and sliders (initially worrying, considering the small size associated with those) which can be ordered in combos. Meanwhile everything non-combo is considered a side: tenders, sliders, fries, cheese fries and mac n' cheese. Considering the gigantic font size of the combo options and the relatively cast aside menu for the sides, it's no mystery which direction they're trying to steer ya.
Not a fan of fast food combos in general, I went for a slider with cheese fries (because, come on. They're cheese fries). They have a specific spice scale you order, starting at no spice whatsoever up to "Primal Rage" or "Super Death" or whatever (it's actually called "Reaper" which I assume is a nod to the Carolina Reaper hot pepper). Normally I go "medium" for these reviews to get a better taste of the main item itself... but damnit "hot" is in the Dave's Hot Chicken name, so I went with that ("Hot" is the third highest on the scale).
First the cheese fries. My two biggest complaints immediately: this is not a large portion for six bucks, and there's barely any cheese sauce on here (as you can see). Blame it on personal taste, but when I go for cheese fries I want those potatoes drenched my friend. This is the opposite of that. Seeing as this is clearly a side portion of fries anyway... you're paying an extra dollar for a teeny little drizzle of sauce, like it's caramel on a fancy dessert. Lame.
Complaints aside, these are quite good. The fries themselves (crinkle cut is always a nice touch) find that perfect combination of light and crispy: wonderfully soft and fluffy yet with just a slight crisp give that feels satisfying to chomp into. They're well seasoned also, not overly salty or anything but just enough to remind you there's something there. The cheese sauce definitely has that gooey element you find in a melty nacho cheese, except this has less of that 7/11 plastic dispenser flavour and more of an understated orange cheddary kick. Damn tasty fries, good mix of textures, an agreeable sauce... why isn't there more of it?
Lets move onto the sandwich, the real make-or-break. Despite being called a slider, this is a decent enough size. I hear "slider" and think either baseball or a tiny sandwich you can conceal by closing your hand around it. Thankfully this is larger than that. A bit unwieldy considering the awkward cut of the chicken doesn't fit in the bun, but I'll take that 100 times over a cookie cutter processed "chicken" product that aligns with perfect snugness. I'd estimate this is about the same size as a Popeye's chicken sandwich, maybe slightly smaller... but there's a lot more to it.
First, this combination of red cabbage and a herb (maybe cilantro) mixed with a relishy mayo sauce which makes their slaw. It's creamy yes, but also modestly crunchy, a bit peppery and leafy bitter... possibly not for everyone but I found it interesting and different. They also don't shy away from loading pickle slices on this thing, which is probably the most uninteresting element here because there are so many other flavours working in better harmony... you can barely notice the pickles are there.
The chicken itself... well it's very soft and juicy, even the thicker parts of the piece. Not really crunchy in any part, aside from the more cooked edges that are mostly skin and batter. It's an incredibly oily affair: even the bun will leave some residue on your finger tips, so stock up on napkins.
How about the spice? I'd describe it as accessibly hot. Frankly it reminds me of a vindaloo maybe, a gradual earthy heat that never stings or overwhelms but sneaks in just enough in spikes. It's definitely a sauce, as the drier seasoned parts of the chicken are not spicy... rather the thicker parts where it has seeped into the bird itself. I quite like it, there's a very good flavour in there balanced with enough of a spicy jab to the corners of your mouth.
Overall... it's a bit overpriced portion-wise (especially the fries) but the quality is there and the sandwich itself really goes in a neat direction. The slaw is unique compared to your standard coleslaws the likes of KFC and Popeyes offer, while the chicken is both deliciously cooked and really loaded with interesting tastes and texture. I've seen on Google that this location has a 3.1/5 rating and I'm somewhat confused by that: either people have the same complaints I do (which are valid) or people have gone in and gotten something entirely different than they expected. I'm not suggesting that those reviewers are incorrect in their opinions, just that after trying* and reviewing many various fried chickens this past year it was refreshing to experience something a little different. Worth a try, I'd say.
*I still gotta give it up to Chica's though. Seriously if you're near Keele and Dundas West that place is great.
Burnt Ends -- I swear, often I wonder if I've started writing Star Trek reviews as some passive agressive way of converting everyone I know (and perhaps strangers) into the greatness of classic Trek. It's almost definitely not working, but hey read my review of a TNG episode anyway. It's Riker, Worf and Data in a 1930s/50s/??? casino simulation and is way goofier than you could possibly imagine.
Beyond that, bah it's the usual editing ideas and such. Might have a baseball thing up soon on one of those other websites I sometimes write for (yep, I'm clearly a two-timing swine).
Tuesday Callback -- I've already reviewed Burger's Priest before (they know how to smother their cheese fries right) and came across this article about the original founder of The Priest, who has since moved on from the chain and into pizza (good man) with Fourth Man In The Fire. To be honest, the article is pretty vacuous beyond that the dude is quite pleased to see that something he helped start has become so wildly successful now, with their 26th location opening in Newmarket. Annnnnd I've now told you every bit of relevant information in that article with about 300 fewer words.
Anyways, I maintain Burger's Priest is pretty overrated but 4th Man In The Fire is legitimately terrific, check them out.
My Old Street -- There's a reason (well several) I don't live in downtown Toronto anymore and have no intention of ever doing so again. Because of constant condo development my old neighbourhood is barely recognizable now as is, and here is yet another step towards that. My thoughts exactly.
Tuesday Tune -- Finishing on some good news, one of my favourite bands has just announced they're releasing a new album next February... their first since 2017! In honour of that, here's a great tune from their great 2002 record Kill The Moonlight.
That's it for this week! It's starting to get cold out, which will make these adventures to try places a bit more interesting/challenging. So if there's a blizzard for a week... I dunno I'll probably just review something at A&W I haven't tried yet or something. They did finally open one here in the Beaches... Anyhow until next time, stay safe, be well, enjoy these remaining days of temperatures in the positives and don't spill that mustard.
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