Friday, 11 February 2022

A Definitive Toronto Pizza Ranking (circa February 2022)


 

It occurs to me, having reviewed 105+ Toronto pizza places since 2018... I should share my actual rankings of said places. So yeah! Here it is... with some quick revisionist notes where necessary. Keep in mind this is a ranking I made in early 2020, so plenty of excellent pies that have been birthed here in T.O since then will sadly miss representation... although I will comment on a few at the end.

(For further detail, you of course can read my extended thoughts on each of these places from 2018 here: 75-56, 55-41, 40-21, 20-11, 10-1... and a 2020 addition or two).  

Also... for context's sake: anything top 50 is quite good. Anything top 30 is first date worthy... top 5 is simply a spiritual experience. Here's what I got:

 

 

105. Regina Pizza and Trattoria

782 College Street

 

 

Super rubbery and made my stomach turn. Also expensive. Blech into the trash.

 

104. Scaddabush Italian Kitchen 

200 Front Street

 


 Like a 20 dollar frozen pizza, painfully salty. 

 

103. Cora Pizza

656-A Spadina Avenue

 

 

102. The Fill Station 

2282 Queen Street East 

 


Closed down in 2021, potentially moving to a new location and all the best to them.

 

101. Bocconcini

96 Gerrard Street East

 

100. Queen City Pizza 

1056 Queen Street East


Queen City closed and became Samaira's Kitchen, which I have not tried. The prices are likewise unwelcoming.

 

99. Pizza Gigi

189 Harbord Street

 

 

98. Calabrese Pizza

3019 Lakeshore Blvd West 

 

 

97. Bravo Pizza

901 Millwood Road

 

 

96. Jessy's Pizza Toronto

2200 Dundas West Street



95. Papa Ceo

654 Spadina Avenue



94. Birky's Bar

1592 Queen Street West



Closed at some point after my 2019 review. Still unique in that this pie cost me one dollar(!) because I bought a pint of Amsterdam Big Wheel. Super sourdough, but legit okay. The best single dollar pizza of all time.


93. Rocco's Pizza and Pasta

972 The Queensway 




92. Buddha Pie Pizzeria

514 Annette Street

 


91. Casa Di Giorgio

1646 Queen Street East

 

 

Not exceptional, but their cheap walk-in specials are a low key Beaches gem


90. Romi's Pizzeria

3062 Bloor Street West



89. Classico Louie's Pizzeria

2547 Yonge Street



88. Regino's Pizza Danforth

3331 Danforth Avenue



87. The Green Dragon Pub

1032 Kingston Road 




86. Salty Dog Bar and Grill

1980 Queen Street East



 

85. Olympic 76 Pizza Cafe

8 Gloucester Street



This longtime Bloor/Yonge pizza spot closed shortly after I reviewed it in 2018, the old building eliminated for (surprise) condos. Glad I at least had a chance to try it before in the nick of time


84. Sicily Pizza

2434 St. Clair Avenue West



Maybe the best bang for your buck pie in the T.O. Efficiently satisfying


83. Golden Pizza

1201 Broadview Avenue 



82. Pizza Nova



This position would be so much lower if not for that glorious garlic pizza hack (pictured above). A meh pizza elevated into pure tastiness (seriously try it once)


81. Za Pizza Bistro

288 Adelaide Street West

 

 

80. Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria - Annex (Deep Dish)

386 Bloor Street West




79. Amico's Pizza

1648 Queen Street West



78. Bitondo's Pizzeria

11 Clinton Street


I've never understood the extreme love. It's tasty and fine... it's charming how old school it is (and their panzos are damn good)... the deeper package though is too bland, the outer edges lacking oomph, to jump higher on this list.

77. Castro's Lounge

2116 Queen Street East



76. Jz's Pizza

232 Wellington Street West



75. Tosto

800 Bay Street


True story: the afternoon I tried Tosto is the hour the Raptors traded JV (plus CJ Miles and Delon Wright) for Marc Gasol. I'd just had a job interview that was disappointing and this news certainly changed my mood. Big Val forever... but damn... what Gasol had left was breathtaking.

74. North of Brooklyn Pizzeria

650 Queen Street West



(this might seem low for some but I've had nothing but disappointing experiences at NoB)


73. Brass Taps Pizza Pub Danforth

493 Danforth Avenue



The Danforth location closed during the early days of the pandemic.


72. Stratengers

1130 Queen Street East

 

You are missed. Many good times.

 

71. Da Venezia

1568 Avenue Road



70. Express Pizza

447 Church Street

 


69. Pi Co

176 University Avenue


 

68. Il Fornello 

214 King Street West

 


67. Fresca Pizza and Pasta

302 College Street



 

66. Danforth Pizza House

920 Danforth Avenue



Worth another try. Feel like I picked the wrong option in the wrong situation. Still impressed. 

65. Slate Restaurant and Bar

2237 Queen Street East



 

64. Dino's Wood Burning Pizza

820 The Queensway West




63. Bar Poet

1090 Queen Street West



62. Blaze Pizza

150 John Street



61. La Grotta Pizzeria

951 Pape Avenue



60. Zini Pizza

795 St. Clair West



59. Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria - Annex (wood fired)

386 Bloor Street West




58. Buzz Buzz Pizza

822 Wilson Avenue 

 


57. Vesuvio Pizzeria

3010 Dundas Street West

 

 

Shoutout to my baseball fella Tyson, who I suspect will think this is far too low a ranking heh. Vesuvio closed in 2020 after 60+ years in the pizza biz. A few of the folks who worked there went off and opened Junior's near Dundas West station, which I have yet to try.

 

56. Pizza Shab

113 Bond Street

 

 

55. Trecce

1792 Danforth Avenue




54. Big Slice - Dufferin and St. Clair

1154 St. Clair Avenue West




53. Superpoint

184 Ossington Avenue

 


52. ViVietha Bistro 

2485 Queen Street East

 

 

51. Terroni 

720 Queen Street West




50. Pizza Pide

949 Gerrard Street East 




49. Mottorino (Citta)

466 Adelaide Street East

 

 

48. Il Paesano Pizzeria and Restaurant

396 Browns Line




47. Frank's Pizza House

1352 St. Clair Avenue West 

 

46. Nodo - Leslieville

1192 Queen Street East

 


 

45. Apiecalypse Now!

735 Bloor Street West

 

Another RIP. Their dipping sauce still lingers in my mind.
 

44. Local 1794

1794 Danforth Avenue

 

 

43. Yeah Yeahs Pizza

1210 Yonge Street

 

 

Sadly this east coast import didn't last long. Shame, they had a SNES free to play back in those Beforetimes.

 

42. Leslie Jones

1182 Queen Street East

 


41. Chito's Pizza and Food

1308 Bloor Street West

 

It's all about the shawarma and drizzled sauce. As a pizza it's extremely meh... but with the combination? Truly delightful. This placement in the rankings has a huge asterisk but man... jump in at your own risk...


40. Ristorante Rosina

740-A King Street West

 


39. Goodfellas Wood Oven Pizza - Bloor West

1 Old Mill Drive


38. Mercatto Locale

330 Bay Street


I have no opinion on the Mercatto chains either way, but this lost one made a damn fine cheap Negroni. 

 

37. Lambretta Pizzeria

89 Roncesvalles Avenue

 

 

A very solid wood fire pizza joint that has been through hell and back through the pandemic. Won't blow your mind but it's reliably good.


36. The Parlour

642 King Street West



It's quite good but just too damn expensive 30+ bucks for a pizza... in Beforetimes... not cool. 


35. General Assembly

333 Adelaide Street West



 

34. 850 Degrees Pizzeria

3455 Lakeshore Blvd West



(I actually went to the short-lived Dundas/Bloor location for my 2018 review, haven't checked out the Mimico one)


33. Victory Cafe

440 Bloor Street West

 

 

It will surprise you how good it is. At least, assuming the level of quality has been maintained since winter 2018.


32. Indie Alehouse

2876 Dundas Street West

 

 

31. True True Diner

169 King Street East



A brand that has since failed at multiple locations since my December 2018 review. I'm surprised I have it ranked this high but it must've made some kind of impression clearly. 


30. DEEPIZZ Pizza

384 College Street




29. Gusto 101

101 Portland Street



28. Frankie's Italian

892 Queen Street East



 

27. Mattachioni

1617 Dupont Street



26. Big House Pizza

962 Danforth Avenue




Another "glad I tried it just in time" entry. Big House closed back in early 2019 and I kick myself for my days living in the area and haunting the next door Only Cafe (where you can bring in your own food) without checking out Big House. Coulda had great craft beer with great pizza... ah well. Appreciate what you have, always.

 

25. Village Pizza

759 Dovercourt Road 

 


24. Big Trouble Pizza

235 Spadina Avenue

 


My heart skipped a beat upon seeing their Spadina location was permanently closed according to Google. They're supposedly reopening on Geary Avenue in Spring 2022 and here's hoping it's a long lasting success. Really interesting pizza here. 

23. Double D's

1020 Gerrard Street


They were damn good, a respectable tribute to Chicago's deep dish finest. Shame it didn't last. 

 

22. Bellissimo Pizzeria and Ristorante

164 The Esplanade

 


My hidden gem. It's heavy with the cheese and if you pick the right toppings to compliment that... you're in for a special treat. 

 

21. Positano Restaurant

633 Mount Pleasant Road 

 


20. FBI Pizza

2336 Lakeshore Blvd West

 


A few folks I know from Etobicoke insist it's overrated. I agree, considering the superior options still to be announced on this list. Meanwhile, this is still a darn good flavourful pizza. 

 

19. Queen Margherita Pizza - Leslieville

1402 Queen Street East

 


 

18. Salt and Tobacco

521 Parliament Street

 


Pineapple on pizza, when done with spicy excellence like this... pineapple haters don't know what they're missing.

 

17. Conspiracy Pizza

858 Eglinton Avenue East

 

 

Please don't associate them with that Adamson shitheel (they certainly don't). Conspiracy is legit good pie.

 

16. The Good Son Pizza - Assembly Chef Hall

111 Richmond Street West

 

 

15. Cellar Door Restaurant

3003 Lakeshore Blvd West

 


 

14. King Slice - Bloor

1598 Bloor Street West




This particular position bugs me because despite their previous excellence, the past few times (like once every eight months) I've been to King Slice... the quality and service has noticeably decreased... not to mention multiple complaints from friends that echo my sentiments. Alas... this ranking is based on my 2019 perspective, but now I'd probably place them in the 40s.

 

13. Buca - King West

604 King Street West

 

 Damn good. Damn too expensive. 

 

12. The Fourth Man In The Fire Pizzeria

832 Dundas Street West

 


11. Blondies Pizza - Leslieville

1555 Dundas Street East

 

 

10. Viva Napoli 

679 Mount Pleasant Road

 

According to Google they're done for good. Damn shame. This was a truly excellent pizza spot now perhaps forever lost to the whim of time.

 

9. Piano Piano Restaurant

88 Harbord Street 

 

 

Not gonna lie, I was incredibly drunk when I tried this (and in-between a double shift at a former job I didn't like) but clearly my affinity is not so isolated: they've opened a second spot more devoted to pizza since I tried my clumsy taste in 2019.

 

8. Pizzeria Libretto - King West

545 King Street West

 



I'm biased of course. I used to work there a century ago. Still though... they know what they're doing and they do it right.

 

7. Pizzeria Oro Di Napoli 

2312 Lakeshore Blvd West

 


 Layers, Jerry. Layers.

 

6. Via Mercanti - Kensington

188 Augusta Avenue 

 

 

5. Napoli Centrale 

964 Bathurst Street 

 

 

I've been there twice. First time to sample their truly exceptional pizza... second time to retrieve my knapsack I'd forgotten behind. The scent of the place was even more marvelous that second time.

 

4. Pizza e Pazzi 

1182 St. Clair West 

 

You've never tasted duck on a pizza until you've had this. All other attempts are inferior. The rest of it is pretty damn good too.

 

3. Maker Pizza

59 Cameron Street 

 

 

Haven't tried them since 2019, so entirely possible expansion has lessened their quality. Nevertheless, at the time I'd never had anything like it... and I mean that in the best way possible. 

 

2. Pizzeria Defina

321 Roncesvalles Avenue

 

 

Simply transcendent. 

 

1. Descendant Detroit Style Pizza

1168 Queen Street East

 

 

Perhaps not as unique in these parts now that spots like Gianna's and 8 Mile have followed the lead (admittedly I have not tried either of those)... but regardless of unicorn-ness Descendant is just some damn incredible pizza. Creativity, layers of flavour... delectable texture... whatever you want they got it. 

 

All these surmisations (it's a word now damnit) are out of date... you can definitely argue this as a definitive Toronto pizza ranking. Hey, that's totally fair. 

But also... hey it's me... this crazy ass maniac fella who went and tried 105 different pizza places in about 14 months. Even with a couple of years of distance I still trust my judgements in these particular moments. 

Plus... if you're read this far I gotta mention some new pizza spots. Conzo's kicks ass, probably in my top 30... Annette Food Market bakes an expensive pie but geez it is fluffy and filled with taste, top 15 probably... Somun Superstar closeby to me in the Upper Beaches, perhaps the best dough I've ever tasted in a pizza... 

And of course Pizzeria Badiali. I need to try them again but my introductory experience was damn impressive... their vodka sauce pizza, shared with some sharp perspective pizza friends, tastes like a fabulous grilled cheese sandwich just in pizza form. 

Anyhow... that's my list. All I gotta say is... Toronto has some damn good pizza... you just gotta dig a bit deeper is all, as do I in the future. Until then... peace and love.  


Tuesday, 4 January 2022

The Tuesday Taste: Pizza Hut

 


Try to save your house

try to save your songs

Try to run

but it follows you up the hill

It's all boiling over

all boiling over 

 

Another Tuesday, another Taste. While there will be several more Tuesdays (one would think) in the future... this will be the last Tuesday review in these parts for a while. More on that later. 

For now, we're finishing this run with the most prominent pizza chain (at least in terms of number of locations) on planet Earth... Jabba The Pizza Hut. Such a terrible joke almost makes me wanna finally write that Star Wars film ranking. Damn despondency...

Among the classical famous American pizza chains, Pizza Hut is the third of the trifecta we've reviewed on the TT. All three (Little Caesars and Domino's are the other two) were founded/incorporated into their current brand at some point between the late 1950s and early 1960s, and while Caesars and Domino's both owe their origins to Michigan... Pizza Hut actually began out of Wichita, Kansas by two brothers attending Wichita State. It became a quick success story, with a dozen locations within a few years, and eventually PepsiCo bought out the company in the late 1970s.

Despite my deserved reputation as a pizza fiend (I mean "expert"), my experience with Pizza Hut is relatively limited. I only vaguely recall having it as a kid, either at birthday parties or (possibly) if there was a dine-in location at Bedford and Bloor near where I went to elementary school. I'm genuinely unsure if that ever existed (and if so it's been gone for 25 years anyway). 

When I moved to the east Toronto Beaches I discovered a Hut location right on Queen street a dozen blocks from my house, which was exciting! Then, upon seeing their prices, I rarely went there until the location shuttered up sometime last year. In limited exposure I remember the oiliness of their pizzas always disrupting my enjoyment... but now we are in the moment of truth. An actual, honest review and critique of Pizza Hut pizza (not my poser article written from memory back in 2018).

Much like Domino's, this is a pie that demands to be eaten warm and as fresh from the oven as possible. Unlike Domino's, which tends to congeal into grossness rapidly... Pizza Hut pizza dries out once cooled off (which this one did since I walked fifteen minutes home with it in -6 temperatures... f**king Winter). It doesn't get stale that quickly, thank Zombie Jesus for that, but the crust becomes extremely flaky even in that short period of time. 

Let's break down the elements. This was a three topping: ham, Italian sausage and pineapple because damnit I'm trying my best to think pleasant warm thoughts in this brutally cold time. The toppings quality-wise aren't anything special: the ham is tough and overcooked in the mix, the pineapple chunks empty and small while the sausage, thankfully in slices and not crumble, has the barest hint of spice or pepper. It's by far the best topping but beyond the three as a combination of texture, none are really much of a flavour presence. 

As for cheese and sauce... meh. The cheese is the stronger element of the two, with a thoughtfully balanced layer (not as horribly thick as Domino's) with good coverage across the pie and a taste that resembles mozzarella enough once cold. I'm extremely wary of pizzas with cheese burn bubbles across them though, and while I don't mind some pop/crispiness your cheese shouldn't have that with every bite. To me it shows a lesser quality cheese (less butter/milk content perhaps) and regardless the taste gets overrun by that sizzled fried cheese taste. Sigh. The tomato sauce is fine but barely worth talking about: there's a hint of garlic powder/seasoning in there but also seems like much of the substance has been cooked/fried out. It's so seeped into the upper soft dough or dried out upon the edges of the slice. Eighteen bucks by the way... considering my finances this purchase was a damn terrible idea. 

Perhaps I'm letting my mood affect my description, so here's a positive: the overall texture of this is something they get very right. Despite an overcooked top surface, this is a soft pizza that feels almost delicate and light in the mouth. Beyond the crusts and tiny cheese bubbles, nothing is overtly crunchy, tough or unpleasant to chew through, even once coldness has claimed it. When fresh, the crusts have a pastry consistency to them, buttery and not particularly dense. 

It also, very surprisingly, passes the reheat test. Warming in the frying pan even on low setting is ineffective (the bottom becomes too stiff and its oil absorbs all the heat, among other problems) but low temperature in the toaster oven actually worked quite well: not exactly replicating the scent, texture and consistency like when fresh but generally decent on all fronts.

Time to tackle the elephant of this review... not that I'd ever suggest trying to tackle an elephant (I mean, you could try...). We have to talk about the greasiness. I don't mind a greasy pizza, especially from a cheese or a high quality fatty meat... but Pizza Hut isn't just excessive in this regard, it's the equivalent of winning a bicycle race by using jet engines. It's goddamn absurd how oily this pizza is... I reheated three slices in a pan and now could probably fry an egg on there without it sticking. 

Not only does the pan-baked greasiness of the dough seep into the overall flavour of the pie, but it coats your fingers in the stuff while you eat it! My fingers are legit slipping offg my keyuboard wwhile typinggh this fer gawd's sasake. Because oil is so baked into this thing, it's not like dabbing with a paper towel (the greasy cheese method) makes any type of difference. It definitely gives the dough that distinctive light crispy texture, which is quaint but wears out that trait awfully quick once you've used your fifth napkin halfway through your second slice. 

Overall... I mean it's better than Domino's because the cheese and texture is more interesting and enjoyable. It's better than Little Caesars because it has actual flavour, and it's better than Pizza Pizza because I don't need to explain why. The oiliness wrecks it though, which when considering the non-bargain price... I can't recommend Pizza Hut. When fresh and for only a slice or two, I see the appeal: that odd buttery lightness to it is unique... but you can make that "when fresh" argument for nearly any pizza. It's a once trick greasy pony with very bleh primary and supporting elements... Still, I regard reheat value highly and I'll give it a very 'C/borderline C+' grade on the pizza scale. It's a "once every solar eclipse" type of pie and definitely one best shared at a get-together with good times, other people and friends. So.... next solar eclipse it is.

Bonus points though to Pizza Hut Canada for getting off some well timed shots at somebody I'll talk about in a couple segments (seriously didn't plan it this way, I'd already written my first draft before I saw that tweet).  

 

Burnt Ends -- Nothing on the horizon. Feeling constantly like shit makes it hard to want to do things, nevermind write them. Lets move along.

 

Hey Doug -- Normally this would be where I make up yet another amusing descriptive insult of our imbecile Ontario goblin premier, who once again keeps proving he's too stupid, stubborn and ignorant to navigate his way out of a dry grocery bag, even with directions from professional grocery bag escapers. But I'm not gonna do that. No, I think I'm just going to imagine the real Ontario ol' Dougie Ford envisions. A wondrous sprawling concrete land where independent businesses are fossilized, mega-chains owned by donors and cronies rule all... drive-thru windows along endless highways twisting and turning around empty condos in no particular direction. Everybody drinks the same shitty ass beer (which won't be a buck each) and public parks are some antiquated notion (there's entry money to be made after all). Underfunded hospitals, overcrowded schools, an exhausted workforce constantly in dire straits.

A society that deliberately doesn't keep its leaders accountable, either by public misinformation, apathetic disinterest, blind support of the man and "his party", or that people who would complain have bigger, more urgent matters like not joining a perpetually growing legion of starving homeless. An Ontario where the inner circle gets everything it wants and yet is still beloved for it... the false promise of "hard work" and "being open for business" breeding an impossible ultimate success. Maybe some people ("folks", if you will) wouldn't even mind such a place, a full-hearted embrace of a flaming dumpster fire dream... but that brainless nightmare land sure as fuck ain't for me. 

 

Good Night And Good Luck (We'll All Need It) -- As mentioned earlier, I'm taking a hiatus from the weekly review for a while. No idea how long... I can't even say with certainty if it'll even come back to be honest. You can probably tell why by the tone of this review... but yeah there's a lot of stressful bullshit happening right now and while in the past writing these reviews has mostly been a positive method of coping and diversion... this week especially felt more like an ill-advised chore than anything. Some inside baseball: if my opening line doesn't have a finishing (!) things are going very not good. There has been just one of those since mid-November. 

Also frankly, considering my current situation I just can't fucking afford to do these right now. 18 bucks on a pizza when your bank account is already deep in the negatives... truly the definition of dumb and frivolous. Rather than force myself to create something where my passion to do so is distracted and compromised... I'm pulling the plug. Hope to see you all on the other side. 

 

Tuesday Tune -- Oh fine. One more song. Seems fitting to finish with this anyway.


 

That's all for me. I've pretty much said everything already so I won't dawdle through the same goodbye. Until next time, whenever or if that may be... stay safe, stay warm, stay vigilant and don't spill that mustard.