Wednesday, 17 January 2024

The Tragically Hip Discography

 



Undoubtedly, there are plenty of Canadian musical acts that have achieved considerably higher levels of fame and international recognition. Rush, Neil Young, Joni Mitchell... and then to be more modern... Drake, The Weeknd, Shania Twain, Arcade Fire, Justin Bieber... just a few off the top of my head. Your particular mileage will likely (and rightfully) vary on those names, as indeed it may with the Tragically Hip. However, despite (or maybe because of) never climbing to the levels of household name status as those other artists... it is hard to deny the Hip are the most iconically Canadian band that we have ever seen. 

Between Gord Downie's consistent passionate references to Canadian mythos, or his seeming endless treasure chest of obscure small towns and places, combined with an underrated band (their dual guiat attack is mighty distinctive) and that lack of a true international breakout... well, the Tragically Hip always felt like a secret national treasure. Something you just had to be Canadian to be "in" on. Sure, they toured in the United States and Europe plenty and even performed on Saturday Night Live (fittingly introduced by Dan Akroyd, who vouched for them)... but even at their highest they never came close to losing that uniquely Canadian-ness (totally a word) about them. What is that, exactly? Hard to describe I suppose.

Defining The Tragically Hip musically? Beyond saying "rock", it's perhaps even harder to describe. The early records are drenched in a style of bar room blues, folk-ish twang rock (the kind of stuff you slap a wooden bartop to)... while their later output veers into more spacious modern indie/alternative rock. Aside from Downie's lyrics growing more abstract beyond the first few records... no real sudden or deliberate changes in direction really exist. The evolution was gradual, but notable nevertheless. 

All of their albums have this unmistakably "it's The Hip" sound, which to boil down at its most basic: drifting, interweaving guitars, and Gord Downie's distinctive vocals and free-form delivery. Every record they ever made has a degree of this element: some far too much, some not enough, some where they try too hard at it, and others where it flows as naturally as the Humber River.     

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As is well known, The Tragically Hip formed in 1984 in Kingston, Ontario. Guitarist Rob Baker and bassist Gord Sinclair had played in bands together at Kingston Collegiate high school (one of them, The Rodents, is referenced in the music video for "Poets"). Downie was the frontman in a rival band that once even faced off against The Rodents in a battle of the bands/talent show type of competition. Clearly there were no hard feelings, as along with drummer Johnny Fay and saxophonist Davis Manning, they all joined forces to form The Tragically Hip... getting the name from a skit in the Michael Nesmith film "Elephant Parts". Yes, that's right... arguably the greatest Canadian rock band of all time have a direct referential connection to a Monkee.    

In 1986 the group (Downie having now graduated Queens University) decided to get serious at this rock and roll thing. Another guitarist and friend of the group, Paul Langlois, joined around this time, while Davis Manning and his sax departed. The lineup of Downie, Baker, Sinclair, Langlois and Fay would last the remaining three decades of the band's existence. 

Initially they mostly played covers of songs "we wanted to hear played at bars" consisting heavily of Rolling Stones and a smattering of other artists. The group began slowly working on original material but many of the owners of the local bars where they performed weren't interested in that stuff... so often times to try out their material live they would fib, telling the crowd something like "this number is a rare track on an unreleased Doors album."  

The band grinded it out on the road for a time, making long drives throughout spacious Ontario and cramming in as many gigs as they could play. Through this they eventually they met Ken Greer of Red Rider, who would later produce their first EP, and meanwhile also caught the attention of MCA Records president Bruce Dickinson at a gig while playing the Horseshoe Tavern in downtown Toronto. The self-titled EP was released in 1987 to modest attention, and the band kept working throughout that year... playing a self-estimated 200 shows between January and September of 1988 to promote it. Of course, it would be their second release that would really capture the ears of many, many more.

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This is a difficult band to differentiate certain albums from one another... at their weakest (regardless of era) a lot of their songs can sound rather samey and as such I'm not going to grade any of these records. (I'll still rank them, of course). 

The Tragically Hip released thirteen studio length albums in their three decade-plus run, which is some sizable output... but just for fun and completions sake I'm going to include the two EPs on here as well. I think the self-titled debut is an important record to look at in terms of their origins and quick evolution, while their other EP (a collection of previously long lost tracks which also is their most recent release) works as a curious historical artifact in itself. 

Anyhow, lets get into it. No need to twist my arm.    


#15. The Tragically Hip EP (1987)

 


Alas, The Hip's first outing is also their weakest. I've always liked "Last American Exit" quite a lot: there's a lot of that small town heart and soul that is so synonymous with early Hip, and "Highway Girl" is an okay rocker (one the band liked to play live a lot far beyond these beginnings). But I've never much cared for "Small Town Bringdown" despite it being their first hit, and the rest of the material doesn't leave much. The youthful rawness only charms so far when the songs are simply whatever. It's not 'bad' by any means, sure ("Last American Exit" is legit really good), but as a full listen it leaves no impression and is not one I'm eager to revisit. On their final Long Time Running tour, this was the only release they did not play a song from.

Side note: "Evelyn" is considered by the band the first original song they ever wrote.  

 

 

#14. We Are The Same (2009)

 


 

Music history is filled with plenty of examples of records that are over-produced within an inch of their lives (one of Phil Spector's many, although lesser, sins). 

Hey, while it's not close to the Beatles best, at least Let It Be has a few really good songs. We Are The Same? Hoo boy. Even if you ditch the gross sleekness of it (it plays more like a product than a record... the bombastic strings and forced country-twang on these tracks become quickly unbearable)... this is one weak-ass collection of Hip tunes. Only two songs (one amazing and one merely good) save it from the bottom of the list. Even then... the debut EP is just kind of a harmless nothing. I genuinely dislike this album significantly.

I bought it back in 2009 (on CD) when it came out and initially even then didn't care for it. Hell... I stopped following them for a time altogether (this would be the last Hip record I ever sought out as it came out... lucky me). Same is an overbearing, overproduced work... the only time The Hip veered into pretentiousness (impressive, considering how intentionally abstract Gord Downie could be). On the dials they brought back experienced producer Bob Rock (he'd also produced World Container) and while that album has similar issues, they at least focus on some crunchy guitars. Here? There's a weird hammy seriousness and it just doesn't work at all. 

With delicate exception, The Hip are usually at their best when they're grounded and sounding like their distinctive selves. They were a sneaky versatile band all around and so that distinctiveness has many dimensions... but on this particular record the unfortunate veering into glossy, radio friendly sheen completely fails because it betrays the soul of their sound. They're trying way too hard to be grand and emotional, additionally painful when all these songs blend together in an uninspired lameness. "Now The Struggle Has A Name" might be the worst thing they ever recorded. 

There are sprinkles of positive moments, nonetheless. "The Depression Suite" (again, how'd The Tragically Hip become so pretentious?) has a kernel of a good song in there somewhere, and isn't totally unlistenable despite its excessive length (nearly ten minutes, surely the longest song in the studio catalogue). "Coffee Girl" is a generic late 2000s indie pop song but has some charm, and the opener "Morning Moon" is truly good ("third best song we ever wrote" Downie quipped on stage once)... a quality (false flag) momentum builder that is the only thing keeping this album from the bottom of this list. Where the self-titled EP is at worst blah and forgettable, We Are The Same is legitimately tedious for the majority of its play. Didn't like it in 2009, still don't like it now.

 

    

#13. Music @ Work (2000)

 


 

A weird, weird record. The title track is damn great, kicking the proceedings in with an absolute bang (I recall watching the video on MuchMusic a lot when it came out). In fact the first three tracks are by far the strongest... but then things start to fall apart in bizarre directions. A tabla on a Tragically Hip song? In 2000? Strange. The production itself really reeks of that murky late 90s/early 2000s alt-rock heaviness, which doesn't quite work with The Hip's particular sensibilities. "Tiger The Lion", one of the albums strongest tracks, broods to the point it could've been a Tea Party song. Its like they met late 90s Bowie or something.

It still could've worked, but the band plays it like they're trying out a bunch of different ideas without any real hooking melodies to pull it off. Overall, it's a bleh record beyond the excellent title song. It's also by far the worst album cover in The Hip canon... it's like one of those 3D paintings you have to stare at for an hour to see what it is. Yeesh. You've done much better, Rob Baker (the Hip lead guitarist has also done almost all of their album artwork, as well)


Everything is bleak

it's the middle of the night

You're all alone

and the dummies might be right


 

#12. World Container (2006)

 


 

Now it gets hard. For me, the bottom three and the top three Tragically Hip albums became very apparent upon re-exploring then diving deeper into the catalogue. The rest? This 12-7 range is really tough... all are decent candidates with multiple highlights, but somebody has to take up the rear. 

And World Container shall be it, but as no intended insult to that album at all. It's an okay Hip album, trying a bit too hard to be radio relevant but has some fine tunes regardless. I'm giving it the bottom placement among this jumbled middle because it doesn't have a true standout song: "Lonely End of The Rink" comes close but every album that comes after this has at least one killer track that surpasses it.

Still, World Container was quite a bit better than I remembered. There's a brightness to the sound... which works against it. Too clean and predictable, like the classic Hip rocking grit comes across manufactured. "In View" is of course the famed single from this release and I think that is a darn good song... and yeah it's a good song. I like it! A harmless pop tune. 

And that's sort of where I land here with World Container. It's a very harmless album. Chronologically stuck between one terrific, emotionally charged record, a terribly bland void of ideas on the other side... World Container is just kinda... there. On its own merit it's decent, but not a whole lot of it will captivate or compel. Seventeen years later (really? Damn, I remember buying this in a store....) it falls into the category of "explore if you really like this band". Like Zeppelin's Presence, I suppose... except Presence is way, way better.    

 

Then laugh til all the chameleons turn black

Laugh and laugh til you're told "please don't come back"

Then fake incredulous

Say "I just can't believe

how'd it get this late so early?" 


 

#11. In Violet Light (2002)

 


 

The period between 2000-2010 is, in my opinion, the weakest for The Hip. All those albums have a good song or two at minimum (every Hip album does), and there is one simply terrific record hiding in that span... but for the most part they sounded stuck. In the 1990s they rock and roll with familiar effortlessness and evolve from bar blues into various avenues within their sound... in the 2010s its finally embracing what they are and not forcing a rock radio smash hit. The 2000s? Trying lots of things... with hit-and-miss success and the weakest moments smelling of desperately seeking direction.

In Violet Light, to me, suffers from a lot of this. The three best songs on the record, by far, are all the singles. Without even looking them up I remember the music videos vividly ("The Darkest One", with the Trailer Park Boys, remains an all-timer in Canadian music videos because come on... Gord Downie bribing Bubbles, Ricky and Julian with a bucket of fried chicken to do a dirty deed in Sunnyvale? It should be a Heritage Moment). 

"Silver Jet" is a fun catchy little rocker and "It's A Good Life If You Don't Weaken" (named for a graphic novel) gave me chills as a teenager twenty damn years ago. What do you think it does to me now.... good lord (good Gord), just an unbelievable song with unmatched bare-all soul. Feist does it justice (she's pretty good too)... a hard one to replicate. 

The rest of In Violet Light is just... it plays and then ends, to me. "Leave" and "The Dire Wolf" have some interesting musical ideas but as songs they dawdle, and little of the rest is memorable even after a couple of listens. The two opening songs "Are You Ready?" and "Use It Up" do get stuck in my head but not in an enjoyable way. To simplify, this is a Tragically Hip album: sounds like one undoubtedly, it doesn't overtly offend or distress... but as a front-to-back listen it just passes you by without much lasting impression.  

 

When the colour of the night

And all the smoke in one life

Gives way to shaky movements

Improvisational skills 

 

 

#10. Saskadelphia EP (2021)

 



A something I legitimately did not know existed at all until setting out to write this piece and listen to the records I'd let pass by (basically everything post-We Are The Same). 

The story behind Saskadelphia's eventual release is indeed quite interesting. In 1990, the band was initially conceiving of Road Apples as a double album, with "Saskadelphia" as its working title during the sessions. The record company didn't like either idea (the name or the double concept) and so a bunch of tracks from those sessions were left off. The Hip never operated as a band particularly interested in revisiting tunes that missed the cut for future albums... and so those discarded tracks ended up in the vault. When a fire broke out at Universal Studios in 2008, destroying countless original recordings from many different artists... the band presumed their masters of this era had likewise been lost. 

However! Unbeknownst to them, those tapes had been transferred back to Canada before the fire, and were indeed recovered in 2019. While not a "new" Tragically Hip album by any means (having been recorded three decades earlier) this was unreleased "new" material that, beyond live performances, had never been heard before... and from an early heyday of the group no less. 

As far as that material goes? Hey... it certainly plays and sounds like a bunch of songs that were left off of Road Apples (except for "Montreal", a live recording from 2000 as the original studio cut is still missing). This is a fast-paced, rollicking listen, with Downie snarling his way through the rockier numbers while the band still has a bit of their early twangy sound. And it's fun! Not as strong as what ended up on Road Apples (they do seem to have made the correct selections there), but as a standalone these six songs have enough punch and swagger to carry the affair. 

"Cracking My Spine Like A Whip" certainly delivers on such a visual title, "Reformed Baptist Blues" hearkens back to their bar boogie blues days, and "Not Necessary" just hooks you in with its reeling melody. An incredibly neat curiosity that stands as both an artifact of the band's early 90s sound, and a good listen in its own right.

 

In a purple minded dream

You keep peeling back at what it really means

This beauty's too small to be true 

           

 

#9. Man Machine Poem (2016)

 


  

The last recorded Tragically Hip album may very well be the strangest and most unique record the band ever made. Much like Bowie's "Blackstar", it's difficult to look or evaluate this album without the specter of Downie's illness and death (even though it was mostly recorded before his diagnosis) looming over it. 

The general desolation of the record certainly lends itself to that notion. This is harsh, uneasy work... taking turns into mortality's shadows at every opportunity (ironically, one of the brighter tunes is called "Here, in the Dark"). Even the more energetic songs carry an undercurrent of existential questioning. Kevin Drew co-produced it and sonically his fingerprints are unmistakable: lots of open atmosphere, an extended rock instrumental interlude on "Machine" (The Hip never did that kind of stuff in the middle of a song) and just a lot of auditory space that lets these bare-bones songs breathe out for maximum effect.

Downie's vocals are more muted in the mix than usual (another usual Drew thing) which works because his once powerful voice is semi-diminished... he still sounds great (Downie's more considered, less howling style of singing has always been stellar... the man was vocally versatile as hell) and he carries these songs with an understated vulnerability. When his power selectively picks back up its more for intended effect to lament at the state of things. 

With the title, The Hip pull a Reverse Zeppelin and name it after a song featured on the previous album. That (randomness) aside, boy the band just sounds great... despite this not really sounding at all like classic Tragically Hip whatsoever. Despite their notorious loose electric guitar workouts, everybody in the band has always been incredibly tight and here they seem especially locked in, with the clean and spacious production accentuating all of it. They're all terrific musicians of course, even at the band's worst when they appear to be going through the motions... but here it just sounds like there's a fire beneath them. I've never heard Johnny Fay's drumkit so punchy and dynamic in the mix. It's moody modern Indie Rock! Delivered by a legendary great Canadian band in their farewell... and played like they've lived it for decades. 

As final albums go, it isn't really a grand farewell... nor is it much of an encapsulation or a tying up of their long career. It's easily the most un-Tragically Hip record they ever made, and still a compelling listen nevertheless. Not an easy one, be warned... there is a bleak intensity throughout.    

 

Just go and see

the thousand pictures

That tomorrow is

or will surely be 

 

 

#8. Now For Plan A (2012)

 

 

One of the truest joys of writing discography reviews like this is both revisiting albums you'd forgotten how much you enjoyed, or discovering something new that had slipped by you... something you might never had checked out otherwise. In the former case: aside from We Are The Same, re-listening to all these Hip albums has been a positive experience and a reminder of why I've liked this band so much at so many different stages of my life. For the latter, this entire project would be worth it solely for the reason I discovered how sneakily terrific a record Now For Plan A is.    

To keep beating up on We Are The Same (sorry but it deserves it), Plan A (which chronologically follows that nadir) is light-years more inspired. The Hip sound like The Hip again. The musical punch and grit, the real hearty emotions and wild narratives sung by Downie that were so polished away behind commercial production sheen on the previous two albums? Finally back in force, and the band likewise sounds inspired again. A true late career rejuvenation after going through the motions on World Container and then having nothing resembling good ideas on We Are The Same. Man, just when you think they were ready to fade politely into the sunset...

This is a short album (only the EPs are shorter) and as such it does not waste any time. "At Transformation" is a wicked, building tune... starting off in that classic Hip brooding energy and then bursting into something brighter. "About This Map" is one Downie sings with such vigorous passion you can't help but swoon, "Done And Done" just catches you with its delicate soft pace, and then the title track (featuring Sarah Harmer) plays like a Broken Social Scene b-side with its dual man-woman soft vocal harmony and airy atmosphere. Nothing overstays its welcome, nothing imposes.

Weirdly, this is the Hip's lowest rated album on website Rate Your Music. Huh? Like every Hip album except one, there is a song or two here that I could do without. But the heights? Damn. It's cleanly produced but ditches the pop sheen that mucked up the previous two albums... like they're not trying directly to have a radio-friendly hit, they're just being themselves while embracing subtly different, modern rock things. A veteran band making another quiet in-between evolution (see what I did there), and it works. Love the cover too.   


In your face the endless patience

The fleeting nature of life on display

I'll stay til the wisteria fades

The way it falls all over LA

 

#7. Trouble At The Henhouse (1996)

 


 

A record that completely underwhelmed me upon the first few listens. Nothing, beyond the simply awesome "Gift Shop" and well known "Ahead By A Century" (a song I strangely forget about constantly) made any lasting impression. Going into this project, I considered this album as a contender for last on the list.

Fortunately I listened to it again a few more times and, well clearly it grew on me. It's far from perfect... in fact this album is uneven to the point I began to wonder if there was, tracklist-wise, a "Odd number good, Even number bad" thing going on (call it the "Reverse Star Trek Movie Rule, which for the record still holds even now if you insert 'Galaxy Quest' inbetween Insurrection and Nemesis!). 

Henhouse isn't a great listen front to back, as the tone really doesn't roll well... but those good songs are really damn interesting. Whether it be the mellow tale and groove of "Flamenco" (a true highlight), Sonic Youth-like homage "Coconut Cream", Gord Downie doing his best David Byrne (or Michael Stipe?) on "Butts Wigglin"... combine that with the two hit singles and already half of this record is excellent, if somewhat random.

The rest of it, for me anyway, doesn't do much. "Springtime In Vienna" is a song the band played live until the very end, and I'm not sure why. It's just okay. Same with the closing "Put It Off", which just reminds me of the much better and shorter White Stripes "I Fought Piranhas" (it's the exact same guitar riff... although fine sure the Stripes debut record came out after Henhouse did).

Debating 7-9 on this list was difficult but I think Henhouse nabs it just by a beak (see what I did there) by not having any song that is completely skippable. It's an uneven record, very much caught between their mid 90s era of fuzzy guitarscape atmospheric tales of Day For Night, against the more straight-forward power pop of Phantom Power. As such it excels at neither, but as a stepping stone in a rich catalogue... it surpasses curiosity and truly is an album worth exploring if only for its exceptional heights.    

 

Maybe 

a prostitute 

could teach you

how to take a compliment

Maybe

I'll go to New York

I'll drag you there

You said "no one drags me anywhere"

     


 

#6. In Between Evolution (2004)

 


 

An intensely emotional, politically charged album... how often do The Hip sound this angry? The guitars grind their way through the affair, especially in the first half... and it sounds bloody amazing.

Opening it up is the raging wake for deceased hockey player Dan Snyder, "Heaven Is A Better Place Today", where Downie just sings his damn heart out. "Gus The Polar Bear" takes aim at the fearmongering happening around the Iraq War (how totally not relevant today), "Are We Family" openly ponders whether society can ever achieve harmony ("taking care of each other/one bullet to another") while "It Can't Be Nashville Every Night" takes some potshots at pro-war sentiments from country singer Toby Keith (not named directly, but it seems fair to assume).

Not to say the whole album carries this kind of vitriol. "Vaccination Scar" is an awesome weird rocking journey where Downie just seems to be making up poetry on the spot (he does do that), "Goodnight Josephine" is a sweet closer that balances a quiet/loud dynamic elegantly, and "If New Orleans Is Beat" just gives me chills every time... dripping with power and naked feeling. One of their best lesser known songs.

In Between Evolution could easily be in my Top 3 Hip albums except that it hits a lull in the middle. Starts incredibly strong (arguably the best opening six song run in the entire catalogue) and finishes strong with the drug trip story "One Night in Copenhagen" to "Josephine", but that meh middle chunk docks the overall record a few points. It keeps the spirit of the album, but the songs aren't quite up to the stuff as the bookends. Still though, just a wicked album... proving once again (following the subdued In Violet Light and bizarre Music @ Work) that The Hip can bring out the guitars and rock with anybody. 

 

And here's the scene

your horse is going the wrong way

up the street

Are we family?

or what 

 

 

#5. Up To Here (1989)

 



The self-titled debut EP had hinted little moments of what this band could be. Amongst a small package of mostly forgettable tunes... there was a faint spark of a talented, energetic, rocking bar band eager to play and sing about the heartlands of Canada. Their first full length release is where that suggested spark first catches fire... resulting in a few of their still most well known songs to this day.

They have other albums where the creativity, songwriting or diversity of melody is far more engaging... but as a band leaping from the debut EP into this level of tightness and craft? It's quite an impressive jump, and happened in the span of barely a year no less. 

Up To Here is still The Hip in bar band mode: lots of twang, the melodies are very straight forward, the energy and Downie's vocals follow a similar pattern on pretty much every song... but the biggest key? Those songs themselves. This is a huge leap in overall songwriting, not just Downie's words but how the band plays, how these (again fairly simple) tunes progress. The self-titled EP has the feel of a bunch of kids hopping in the van and hitting the road for the first time... on Up To Here they sound like a polished, professional band. The work has been put in and here is where it first pays.

That their first full release is a consistently quality batch of memorable tunes certainly helps too. 'Blow At High Dough' (if you've ever watched Hockey Night In Canada you've probably heard it sixteen thousand times) sets the tone with that little guitar lick and Downie's iconic "They shot a movie once/in my hometown" opening lyric. 'New Orleans Is Sinking' is an excellent foreshadowing of the band's range and another damn cool guitar part, meanwhile Downie's mid-song rant (forever "insert scene here" when he'd sing it live) is the first clue of his particular lyrical and improvisational talents. It's just a Canadian rock anthem unto itself, eh? Eh? 

A lot of the lesser known songs do follow the same sound structure and patterns, so the album's biggest flaw is its repetitiveness, despite most of these songs being quite good when they stand alone. Great as a record to pick a few random songs and enjoy, but as a start to finish listen the tone rarely shifts... (and keep in mind the Ramones debut is one of my favourite albums). For instance I quite like 'Another Midnight', it's a slightly different kind of song than the rest, but it's a shame its hidden at nearly the end of the record because after a while all of this tends to bleed together. 

Still, overall Up To Here is a great Canadian rock album and an important one in The Hip canon because of the leap. Had the band stayed right here with this sound, I suspect they'd have sustained as a respected Cancon rock band, sure... but merely as a tall blade of grass in a field (not to mention a dated one), rather than as a tree sprouting many branches.      

 

Well she was nineteen seventy

Burning like a cigarette long season

Heir to all her family's old treasons

She makes love hard like an enemy 

 

#4. Phantom Power (1998)

 

 

Best Tragically Hip album cover? Tough call... they have a lot of really good ones, but this has to be up there. I gave Rob Baker (lead guitarist and album artwork dude) some scuff for the awful Music@Work, but overall The Hip have several fantastic covers and this is a true contender for top spot.

Sort of an underrated record in my opinion... maybe? The remaining members of the band do think highly of it, and I whole-heartedly agree.  

For the purpose of ranking their records, a few duds bring Phantom Power down the list... and tone-wise it doesn't flow together all that well as a front-to-back listen. Aside from that, there are just some really damn incredible songs on here. Everybody knows the iconic "Bobcaygeon" (a song I do like, although I heard it so much as a preteen in 1998 I got sick of it for a very long time)... for me "Something On" is a personal favourite... the real song on here I could listen to a million times and perhaps never grow tired of. 

The opening "Poets" is a favourite of Baker's with those distinctive opening chords and Downie embracing non sequitur beat-poetry mode. Wicked tune. "Membership" has this brilliant brooding guitar undercurrent... and then "Escape Is At Hand For The Travellin' Man" tells this sweet, passionate little story of a missed connection at a concert. Just incredible songwriting, while the band follows the moods of the groove with subtle flawlessness. Probably the best song on the record, probably a top five Hip song in my opinion.   

An aside: "Fireworks" is another sweet romantic Gord tale that his brother Patrick Downie, who was the sound guy at the old Boston Garden, would play at intermissions (and cut it right as the F-Bomb drops).

Phantom Power is an uneven listen. None of the ideas or songs flow together in any kind of way, and as such there will be occasional songs that stand out as strikeouts amongst the home run derby into the second deck. The flow as an overall record makes no sense, like a bunch of songs thrown into a hat and drawn at random. Annnnnd, that's all the negative I have to say about this wonderful, wonderful record. 

The peaks alone are so damn good that they bring the overall record a deserved high spot on this list. While the mood/atmosphere jumps like a puppy on sugar, and the remaining band members' considerable love for "Chagrin Falls" confounds (don't get that one, sorry fellas)... most of these are strong, powerful songs with tight melodic sensibility. I referred to it as a "power pop" record earlier and I stand by it: there's punch here but these songs are crafted in a way to stick with you via hook, not grit or muscle. 

It's a very different kind of record than anything they'd done before, and despite the remaining three of this list arriving chronologically earlier (if you're keeping track of course)... Phantom Power is the one that has (for the most part) aged the best. By which I mean, not tied by a particular era of rock music. A wild guitar part from 1994 or 1976 will, despite the excellent efforts of remastering, always have the scent of a guitar part from '94 or '76. Phantom Power overall sounds like a late 90s record, but has so many sustained moments that transcend that label. An album that can boast multiple timeless songs.     

 

I walked through your revolving door

Got no answer on the seventh floor

Elevator gave a low moan

The pigeons sagged the wire with their weight

Listening to the singing chambermaid

She sang "They Checked Out An Hour Ago" 

 


#3. Fully Completely (1992)

 


 

By this time, The Hip had become well known in Canada... scoring a bunch of (now iconic) radio hits via their first two full length records. Major success in the United States, however, had continuously eluded them, and so going into their third album they were eager to change this. In came producer Chris Tsangardies, mostly known for his work with heavy metal bands, and off to London, England they went to record new stuff. 

Fully Completely didn't quite become the American or international breakthrough they were hoping for, but between the margins it may very well be their most distinctive step stylistically. Whether it be Baker and Langlois exploring more complex, weaving guitar textures, or this generally drippier, thicker production compared to the basic bar-room twang so prominent on their early recordings, or Downie sounding more mature and varied in his approach... whatever it is (maybe all of it?), this record is notably deeper than anything they'd done previously.

The majority of critical consensus regards this as their best album. Yeaaaaah... if that's your personal choice as well, it's a fine selection. A great rock record: the guitars are incredibly alive, the rhythm and drums just seem to have a better punch and dynamic pace to them than their previous work... and its also really the first time on record that the sound of the band begins to match Gord Downie's more unsettling lyrical ideas. "Locked In The Trunk of a Car" is mesmerizing in its creepiness... and the band plays it with gritty restraint until at last he starts to scream "Let me out!" in the coda. Yowza. Not a lot of songs like it.

Other songs like "At The Hundreth Meridian", "Wheat Kings", "Fifty Mission Cap" continue their love of diving into Canadian reference and legend, and then the opening "Courage (For Hugh MacLennan)" is just simply a classic and I do still love it so. My word. It didn't come it doesn't matter. 

As a complete record, Completely doesn't quite make it to the top on my list because, like almost any Hip album... there are just a couple of songs that don't do anything for me. The closer "El Dorado"? I often forget the supremely better "Wherewithall" isn't the actual closer. Likewise, I know it's one of their more famous songs but "Wheat Kings" is just not my thing. A fine song, fantastic lyrics, but its pastoral sound belongs either two albums earlier or two albums later.    

Beyond that though, not a lot to criticize with Fully Completely. It's an excellent album, loaded with several great songs, and while it does suffer from early 90s datedness on the murkier guitar tracks... the quality of these tunes makes it easy to brush that aside. The Hip also have a lot of great album covers and this one has to be in that top 3 as well.    

--

As an aside, Fully Completely (released in 1992) seems a good moment to talk about the Hip's "Another Roadside Attraction" traveling festival they put on a few times, or more accurately, in 1993, 1995 and 1997. Essentially a mini-music-festival of sorts that would deliberately move from one middle-of-nowhere location to another, and featured at points several other well-known artists like Sheryl Crow, Wilco, Los Lobos, Ziggy Marley, Blues Traveler and Ron Sexsmith. I don't really have much of a point by mentioning this fact, rather that a review of the Hip seemed incomplete without giving it some love, and it would've been after Completely that this concept for Roadside Attraction really gained wings. Cool band does another cool thing I didn't know about!    


They don't know how

old I am

They found armor in my belly

From the sixteenth century

Conquistador, I think 

 

#2. Road Apples (1991)

 


 

The only Hip album that doesn't contain a dud track in my view. Front to back, this album is so, so good... weaving between reinterpretations of Shakespeare characters, shady hotels with great basslines, chance meetings with legendary Canadian artists paddling a canoe, and a warning to eat that chicken slow.  

Speaking of "Little Bones"... is there a better, more undeniable guitar riff to open an album in Canadian rock history? Let me know, because I cannot think of one. I'm sure Rush has something close, but they've never been my thing. Anyhow "Little Bones"... just immediately lets you know what you're in for, full stop. And it keeps coming... "Twist My Arm" somehow finds a way to linger without overstaying its welcome, "Cordelia" gets Downie dropping Shakespeare re-imaginations (while the band goes quiet-to-loud as well as any early 90s band could), "Three Pistols" has one of my favourite opening lyrics of all freaking time, "Long Time Running" and "Fiddlers Green" slow it all down with some soulfulness... hell the weakest track on the album is "Fight" and that's only because it's about 90 seconds too long. 

I could talk about every song here, truly love this album so much... but such an exercise would get boring. Instead, lets talk about the overall sound. This is only their second album don't forget (third if you count the debut EP) and it's such another step upwards. I like Up To Here a fair bit but its very stuck in their initial bar-bluesy sound... here they still have a bit of that twang between the cracks but it never gets as samey as that one can be at times. Every song on Apples really feels distinctive. 

Downie still sings with a bit of that early snarl (onwards he pretty much abandons/lessens it) but his always excellent vocals just have an extra level of heart to them on Road Apples. He sounds just goddamn amazing on here, the band follows his poetic whims with tight precision, and his lyrics likewise take another jump. "Bring It All Back" has another of my favourite opening stanzas of all time... "I've been carving you/to see what form you take/you were hiding in out of reach/just wanted to free your shape". Yes sir.

Entering this project, the best Hip album had to be Road Apples in my mind. It's just the most consistent record they ever made: in flow, sound, and especially one song to the next. It's a freaking amazing work and the best songs are hidden behind the famous ones... and The Hip weren't ever really an album band! This is just a record I can revisit front to back at anytime and still enjoy immensely, despite having listened to it my entire life. You'd think this would be my easy choice for the top slot.

But it isn't. Not quite. Certainly by no fault of this album, which is without any major flaw.  


Treading the boards

screaming out MacBeth

Just to see how much

bad luck you really get 



#1. Day For Night (1994)

 


 

Road Apples and Day For Night were both CDs my mum happened to own when I was about eight or nine years old. She would play Road Apples a lot (especially 'Little Bones' and 'Cordelia') but Day For Night was the album I discovered a lot for myself when no one was around. Too young to quite get the darker tones but old enough to like the layers of noisy electric guitars. Naturally I became an indie rock/folk bassist because shut up that's why.  

 

Fully Completely hinted at the band leaving behind their bluesy, boogie origins... Day For Night is where they abandon it fully and completely (see what I did there! last one I swear). The guitars of Baker and Sinclair are still here in force (their interplay sublimely rolls over this record) but this is really where The Hip become absolutely distinctive. Songs like "Grace, Too", "Greasy Jungle", "Yawning Or Snarling"... are just so unmistakably The Tragically Hip sound. The way "Grace, Too" opens... is like walking through a new doorway from something familiar into something similar yet wild.   

It was incredibly tough to choose Day For Night over Road Apples, and after writing quite a few of these discography rankings for other bands I don't think I've ever gone as back and forth before. Day For Night has two keen advantages: it has the best song between the two (the stunning "Nautical Disaster") and musically its far more interesting. The peaks are higher, it stretches ideas more, takes more chances. This makes it more uneven than Road Apples, since (like every Hip album) a few songs don't quite go anywhere... but none of it ever gets particularly boring ("Scared" gets close though). Meanwhile its many bests stand at worst eye-level with anything else the band ever put to tape. 

There's an undercurrent of spookiness to the record, considering many of the songs are slower paced and take their time to build up. Like sitting at a campfire telling ghost stories... there's a haunting element to much of this but never does it get intently terrifying (and one of the songs is named "Scared"). Unsettling? Definitely. "Titantic Terrarium" is genuinely eerie in its hollowing sounds, despite its simplicity (Downie just telling a tale about building the Titanic, nothing ominous there) Then you have the middle climax of the album, a cressendo of both the record and unto itself: "Nautical Disaster". Was it a dream? Who is Susan? A genuinely brilliant song that leaves more questions than answers and lyrically one of Downie's very best and of the band's playing as well. But only a fool would complain.

Artistically this may very well be the Hip's greatest statement: there's a consistent feel to the guitars, the lyrics, the complete atmosphere of this record that always lingers, making each song flow like one step on a journey to another. What other Hip album could be kicked off by the marvelous, sincere "Grace, Too" and have it fit in so seamlessly rather than tower above the rest? 

The final clincher (for me anyway) is that it's a great bass guitar album. Sinclair is all over this one with the funky timing of "So Hard Done By" or the slow distinctive groove of "Yawning Or Snarling" among others. Meanwhile for six string fun, you get the frantic "Inch An Hour", the tongue-twisting chorus of "Inevitability of Death", the catchy repetitiveness of "Thugs"... it's incredible this all flows together and never loses its peculiar atmosphere. The second half seals the deal with a mix of punchy rockers and slower numbers (the closer "Impossibilium" is a sneakily excellent finishing touch). What a great, great record. A consolidation and height of The Hip's mighty powers.   

 

Interesting and sophisticatedRefusing to be celebratedIt's a monumental big screen kissIt's so deep, it's meaningless

    

 -----

 

Gord Downie spent the final years of his life working diligently to bring public attention to various Indigenous peoples causes and concerns, including 'The Secret Path' multimedia project which told the tragic story of Chanie Wenjack. After his passing in 2017, the band essentially announced they could not continue without him... a declaration they've kept to beyond reuniting once to perform with Feist at the Junos (the band was amenable to this because not only is she a famous and talented singer, but having a female singer instead would prevent a male fill-in from doing "a Gord impersonation"). 

Each of the remaining members appear to still be involved with music in some capacity, and they have all re-joined forces in various combinations for different projects, archival Hip releases and other collaborations since the dissolution of The Hip. Rob Baker in particular, referring to the creative process of songwriting (and possibly a subtle shot at modern approaches), has a recent quote I rather like: "If you can describe completely what a song is about in twenty words or less, it probably isn't worth writing". Indeed.  

 

On Saturday August 20th, 2016, The Tragically Hip performed their final concert at the K-Rock Centre in Kingston, Ontario... ending their goodbye tour fittingly in the town where it all began. The entire show was broadcast live on both television and radio across Canada.

I was playing baseball that night and so didn't watch any live video of the concert. At the time I hadn't followed or listened to them for quite some time, although the looming reality of this being the night of their last ever show was very much on my mind. Still, I assumed I was going to miss the event completely, considering. However, once my game concluded, a good chunk of people from both teams gathered near the parking lot beside our ball diamond for some post game beers and chatter. Several fellas had their car radios on and all were turned up to play the concert broadcast while we hung out, creating something under the twilight sky that was this odd surreal atmosphere of shared nostalgia and beer fueled musical appreciation... all in the middle of this spacious, tree filled Etobioke park. 

It all felt so strangely and uniquely Canadian, perfectly fitting for the occasion, and perfectly Hip.

 

 


 

          

Tuesday, 2 January 2024

This Week In Pizza: Shameless 2023 Link Dump!

 

 

(lead photo is from Otherside here in the Beaches) 

 

With 2023 behind us and 2024 now a reality... it seemed like a good occasion/excuse to consolidate all of my 2023 pizza reviews into one handy little article. At the very least, it will save the trouble of having to search through the links on the taskbar of the site. I'll include some pre-2023 reviews as well, which are mostly of bigger pizza chains. 

Behold!

 

BIG PIZZA CHAINS

2-4-1

Domino's

Fresh Slice

Little Caesar's (deep dish)

Panago

Papa John's 

Pizza Depot

Pizza Hut

Pizza Nova (the garlic hack)

Wing Machine 


SMALLER CHAINS

6ix Pizzas

Big Brothers 

Blondies

Burratino

Maker 

Pizza Fiamma

Regino's

 

STANDALONES

Ambassador 

Badiali

Beast

Bello 

Big3

Blue River

Descendant 

District

Donatelli's 

Eataly

GATTO

Get Well 

Junior's 

La Famiglia

Levant 

Liberty

Mac's 

Mark's

Milano's

One Night Only 

Oswald's

Otherside 

Pie Bar

Pizza On Fire 

Pizza North 

Prince Street

Revolver 

Rorschach Brewery  

Rustico

Samaira's

Slowhand 

Somun Superstar

Wood 900 

 

AND THE MONTREAL EPISODE

 

 

Cheers all! Just a quick update: there are a few places left that I want to try, after which I will be updating the overall rankings (we're probably around 150 Toronto places I've now tried). So stay tuned for that!

 

Saturday, 30 December 2023

This Week In Pizza: Mark's Pizzas

 


 

Like finally giving Pizzeria Badiali their long overdue, trying out Mark's Pizzas was one I'd had kicking around for a while on the "Seriously Must Try" section of the endless list. 

Hey... I don't drive and do you know where this freaking place is? It's in a random plaza in Scarborough (and I mean east Scarborough, not your quaint Warden station Scarborough), nowhere near any GO station, and the TTC bus that goes out there is the one that ends at the Toronto Zoo... which is probably only half a dozen stops later! At this point you're closer to Pickering than East York. 

And yet... they've so consistently been regarded among the best pie Toronto has to offer... I couldn't just throw my hands up in the air and shrug forever. I mean, well I was doing just that... but no longer! Fortunately an old and close friend lives in Guildwood (which still isn't close to Mark's but at least within their delivery range) and so one recent night we collaborated to sample this critically beloved but distant pizza outpost.      

This is an extremely rare occasion wherein I never entered the actual place, so you're all spared my usual "the place looked and smelled like this, it was windy outside, I was wearing a brown toque blah blah" shtick (some people seem to not like those parts). However, we're not quite yet jumping straight into things because Mark's Pizzas has a very interesting website. They go into a lot of detail about their ingredients, their prep and process, there's a sweet shoutout to their small staff by name, an opening confession of sorts from the owner (presumably "Mark"?) explaining he is not a trained chef but just somebody who likes to cook for people... and then most interesting of all: a half hour video of him making an actual pizza! There's too much there to really describe in further detail so I really recommend checking all this out yourself. Really fascinating stuff if you are a pie nerd and its extremely rare for a pizza place to go so into the thick weeds on their website. 

More good news: because there were three of us (my friend and her mom, and then later her hungry brothers who probably ate the leftovers *edit: confirmed)... we got to try two pizzas! And let me tell you, these are bigger than your usual pies as well. I'm guessing probably 16" instead of your usual 12" (so an extra large at most chains). 



Feel like I've been sampling a lot of pepperoni pizzas lately in these reviews. Regardless, this one puts a different kind of spin on things. On paper, it's really just their pepperoni pie with basil and some hot honey (which is smartly on the side, bless them). Basil is the most classic pizza topping of all time (duh)... but basil and pepperoni isn't really a duo I often think of on a pizza. If executed right it would make sense right? Sausage and basil work brilliantly in all sorts of pastas together... 

There's also something about basil on a pizza that's just so appealing to the eye, and the presentation here fits that bill. While the cheese does look more on the yellow side, meaning a bit more oil/grease within (the contrast with the pure white box doesn't help) the blend of colours on this pizza is really quite stellar... I especially like the outer layer of the red sauce around the crust and then the core of pepperoni and cheese in that center. This may seem like much ado about nothing but at this visual level you can tell this was a pie built and crafted with precision and care. It bodes well.



Now for the important stuff. Unlike the New York City style slices I've reviewed a lot lately, this exchanges that crisp base for something much softer and floppier. Not a bad thing: the foundation is still firm enough to hold up the toppings, which is good because this thing is loaded with pepperoni. Deceptively so, like a secret base of them were hiding beneath the cups and cheese resting on the surface. 

It's a simple pie, but a very good one. With all that salty pepperoni and shavings of dry cheese, that basil and hot honey are crucial in balancing out those heavy flavours. The basil is a pungent, leafy presence... only slightly baked and so keeping much of its distinctive taste and moisture. Refreshing! And crucial: the sheer amount of pepperoni on this thing could've been entirely overpowering (and texture-wise it kind of is, making this a somewhat chewy pizza in a meaty way)... but that basil just gives the tongue a reprieve from all that cured saltiness. 

As for the hot honey... well hot honey makes almost any pizza better. There are exceptions (a white mushroom pizza with lots of blue cheese, for instance) but when you have a pie so heavy with pork as this one... adding a bit of sweet and a sneaky bit of spice to it really brings out more of the flavours within, like adding a keyboard part that fits neatly into an already great melody. Once again, bless Mark's for keeping the hot honey on the side rather than drizzling all over once fresh out of the oven. This both allowed us to add however much we wanted to each slice, but more crucially kept the honey from melting into the slices while the pizza was steaming hot... which would turned the affair into a sticky mess (and lessened the taste). Seems like obvious stuff, but in my experience you'd be surprised.

The sauce and crust don't stand out as much, but both do their jobs admirably. This is more of a softer crust, pillowy and only crunchy on those top charred bits. It's more of a hearty tomato sauce with a faint sting, which combines well with the pepperoni. As for the cheese, you can see (in the photo of the entire pie) how it mostly congregates in the center... leading into a sort of texture journey if you eat your slices from the pointy end working towards the crust: gooey cheese initially and then much saucier as you approach the edge, with pepperoni prominent throughout. Quick aside, now there's an article for another day: how do you eat your slices? I'll have to remember that.

 


     

Moving onto the second pizza, a vegetarian option as my dear friend's mother requested as such. What we've got here is a white pizza with arugula, squash, mozzarella, goat cheese and some shaved pecorino? I can't find this pie on their website anymore (must've been a special) and so I'm guessing what that last cheese is... but it's definitely a shaved hard-type of fromage.



In an absolute shocker, both my friend and I preferred this slice over the pepperoni one! My credentials as a meat-lover (such as they were) are in serious jeopardy. What is most interesting are the bits of squash: I'd never tried squash on a pizza before, possibly have never even seen anybody offer squash on a pizza, and the thought to put it on there had definitely not once crossed my mind. \

Here, the squash really works wonders: it's extremely well prepared (more juicy than firm) with a thick jam-like texture and just the perfect amount of sweetness. That sweetness really gives dimensions to this pie, which would otherwise be just the leafy spice of arugula and a mix of creamy cheeses (I would still eat that though). 

Whereas the pepperoni pie was tasty but unbalanced, this particular pizza has that harmony between the elements. You can really taste the mix of cheeses more (and the goat cheese keeps the composition softer once cool), the arugula and squash pair perfectly (like a good restaurant salad) and it loses nothing taste-like when cold. A truly unique creation and a very impressive one that I liked considerably more than I thought I would.

----

Overall! Even had we stuck with just the pepperoni pie, I'd still be giving this a very good grade. The addition of that squash pizza though... absolute game changer. Like pulling off a highlight reel dunk instead of an acrobatic layup... both are good but only one of those really gets the crowd off their feet. 

I haven't described the mozzarella cheese much so I have to mention it's really marvelous in a "behind the scenes" kind of way. It doesn't jump out in particular but is solid and doing important work throughout... giving a slight buttery hint, still keeping its moisture when when cold... it's the crucial glue holding it all together (man I hate the unappealing way I describe good mozzarella as "glue" but you know what I mean here with my analogy).

Mark's Pizza definitely gets a firm recommendation from me. Their only major failing is just being so damn far from anything (apologizes to east Scarboroughers, but you're used to it I'm sure). Since we tried two very different pizzas, individually I'd grade the pepperoni one a high "B+" and the squash an "A--"... so going right down the middle Mark's gets a "B++" from me. Really damn good pizza and probably makes my Top 30 in Toronto comfortably. 

Check them out! But, if like me you live west of Warden Avenue, or Midland Avenue, or Brimley Road, or McCowan Road, or Markham Road, or Scarborough Golf Club, or Morningside Avenue... its quite a trek from any of those and they do have weird hours, so definitely check ahead of time before embarking on the adventure.          


Thursday, 28 December 2023

This Week In Pizza: A Kipling Station Double Feature

 


Two pizza reviews for the usual price of none! 

Initially my plan was to review these two places individually... but alas I realized I didn't have as much as usual to discuss with either of them (especially the second one). Solution: squish these two neighbouring joints together into one Franken-review. Hey, the slices I ordered from both places happened to be fairly similar... so why not a direct comparison? So that's the idea here, although one was way, way better than the other...

Anyhow, the Kipling/Bloor-Dundas West area isn't one likely to win a Walk Score competition... but there are some noted food joints pretty close to the train station... longtime staple Apache Burger probably the most famed among them. This was of course a mission for pizza, and my two targets were Donatelli's and Milano's. 


 

Starting with Donatelli's Pizzeria: this was a spot highly recommended to me by a pizza-knowing baseball friend (who still hasn't tried Descendant last we spoke) and it's a good thing he brought Donatelli's up a few times because this is probably not a place I would've discovered otherwise. For instance, BlogTo has yet to write an article on them and they can't go two days without burping out some kind of click-baity pizza piece. There is a notable YouTuber (5 million subscribers??? Curse my stubbornness with the written word!) who did a video on Donatelli's called "Discovering Toronto's Hidden Pizza Gem", which does seem kind of like a spoiler in the title but it's a four minute video so what are gonna ya do. 

Aside from that and another (much less viewed) video sampling... there just isn't a whole lot of content about Donatelli's out there. Is this seriously going to be the first actual written review of the place? I mean, cool... good for me *pats self lightly on back* but the place has been open for about a year (best guess) and you'd think by now one of the major papers or Toronto Life would've wandered in. Donatelli's does have an Instagram page also and as far as those go this is a pretty bland one: the pizzas look great but why are they posting the exact same pictures of their specials every... single... day. For real. They have over 1200 posts and I'm gonna estimate 1000 of them are of the same nine pictures over and over again (obviously I did not scroll down that far to find out, I don't hate idle time enough to do that to it). 

All this backstory stuff now cast away forever, lets get into the good stuff. Donatelli's is yet another very small joint: you walk in and there's a counter to order from, a drink fridge, and some stools by the entrance window to sit at. Classic pizza parlour setup, and you can tell the place is still fairly new because the tiled walls are still shiny and white. 

To my immediate concern, there were only two types of slice available at this moment and both looked like they'd been sitting for a while. Bad luck on me! I wasn't going to wait around for something fresher either: I live on the opposite side of town, the sun was setting fast, plus I still had to go try the other place. So, I went for the best looking of the limited available options: a pepperoni slice with jalapenos. Normally a good combination, but those peppers looked awfully dried out. 

Apparently Donatelli's either cooks or reheats (or both) their pies in a conveyor oven (I wasn't watching super closely but it definitely didn't look like your standard pizza oven). I will say the effect was similar to reheating a thicker pizza in a toaster oven: it gets a little dry on the edges but at the right temperature you can restore most of the softness. One issue though is you can't get it steaming hot this way (without losing even more moisture) and so it cools again very quickly. 

Still, despite those dry edges... there was a good amount of lighter crisp to this, the crust especially was much fresher than I'd initially feared. Good balance of crunch and doughy layers. As for the flavours... some pretty good dimensions here! I think they (very smartly) added those additional dollops of tomato sauce(after the oven)to order and that stuff really explodes in the mouth with a zing. Very finely blended, almost like a puree, and it strongly leans on the sweeter side. 

Good pepperoni as well, salty but not too much so, and both are tastes that linger in the mouth for quite some time after each bite (always a good sign quality-wise... call it the Anti-Little Caesar's Effect). The crust almost has a hint of roasted corn to it, while mostly tasting like a fried bread but without excess oil. It's also nicely seasoned, and the faint shavings of some parm-like cheese do add a nice extra subtle taste to it all. A lot of good stuff going on here, there's terrific balance and texture... and once again if you've been reading my reviews I prefer slightly too much sauce over slightly too little.

Unfortunately it's far from perfect and I think there's an easy obvious blame for that. I didn't get much of the cheese at all, really on any bite, as its presence was very much a numb non-factor. Likewise the jalapenos, while plentiful, emerged only occasionally with any kind of faint bite to them. The problem is clear: that slice be sitting out too long and while with expert reheating you can save some of it... you can't save it all and the dulled cheese and peppers were the biggest casualties of that. Even the second half of my slice, now entirely cooled again... really lacked a lot of the vividness I'd so enjoyed before. Still entirely fine lukewarm/cold, actually... but a lot of the sparkle had been lost.

---

I'm going to give my final thoughts and grades at the very end. For now, lets move onto Milano's Pizza (which will be shorter* I promise)

 


 

Compared to the new-ish Donatelli's, Milano's might be the oldest active pizza spot in Toronto I've reviewed (now that Vesuvio is gone, RIP). According to their website: Milano's opened in 1963 and when you walk into the place, see all the photos on the wall of junior sports teams they've sponsored, polaroids of former staff and a bunch of other random nic-nacs that wouldn't be out of a place in a legion hall... yeah you definitely believe it. 

I actually had tried Milano's before, back in 2020 (great year am I right). Vaguely, I remember being pretty impressed, and was keen to rank them on The Big List version one. Of course, this was about a week before the 'Some Creep on The Danforth Steals My Phone' incident, which meant the loss of (among many other more important things) all of the photos I'd taken of pizzas sampled that year. Like I said, 2020. Great year.

Well now, we're finally back and here's Milano's. This was my second pepperoni-type slice in about the span of twenty five minutes, but this one (as you can see in the photo above) is much more of a no frills straight-forward attempt. 

Starting with the positives: it smelled great. If I'd grown up with a pizza place like this nearby, I would still be tasting the nostalgia while breathing the cold December air. The sauce... more on the herbal side which I'm normally not a fan of, but at least you can taste it throughout the slice and it works well with the thin light crisp of the base. Very underwhelmed thus far, though.

The rest of it? Just not a lot going on. Generic crust (little in the way of flavour beyond ordinary bread), unremarkable cheese and the type of pepperoni you've probably had a thousand times on okay-ish pizzas, which is what this is. Nothing offensive, but nothing that stands out in an especially delicious way either. It reminds me a lot of Pizza Nova, actually... and I mean Nova now not ten years ago when they were still pretty good. Even the little pepperonis are similar, but worst of all was trying to reheat it in the pan (thin crust). Avert your children's eyes (unless you want them to suddenly go vegan) and behold this horror: 

 


        

For real. After several minutes the cheese refused to get even slightly warm and gooey, so I flipped the thing (toppings down just for a quick minute), and I still couldn't get this cheese to melt (congealing seemed more it's dance). Trust me, it tasted about as good as its radioactive shell looked. After two bites I gave up and picked the pepperonis off just to eat those). 

----

Overall! I don't think it's going to be much of a shocker which pizza I preferred. Yeah I can't even make a good fake-out because this isn't even close. I'm not going to dock them for that awful reheat (it doesn't help) but Milano's was just so blah... beyond an okay texture before you got to the crust, this was like every random mediocre pizza I ate in my teens/early 20s. Very forgettable, no seasonings, extra hint of secondary flavour, and so much of a Pizza Nova clone I was worried the heartburn hounds would get me good (they didn't, so points for Milano's there). For an old school type of place, this was probably a damn fine pizza twenty five to thirty years ago... but the playing field has jumped several levels in that span and flavour-wise they've been left well behind. I'm obviously not going to recommend them, but it's a quirky little time capsule to visit as a place at least. For that, I'll be kind and award a "C+". But that's the only memorable thing about it.

As for Donatelli's... I could tell (especially with the bland Milano's slice following them) that there is some good idea of flavours and quality here. Those two tomato sauces couldn't be more different, and I liked the little touches around the margins Donatelli's did as well (the seasoning, roasted corn hint in the crust). Alas... I can't completely look beyond that numbed cheese and those stale jalapenos that just didn't bring the ooph I was hoping for. 

However, clearly I'm feeling kind today and I will chalk those shortcomings up to just arriving at a bad time. It won't change my grade for now, but there was clearly enough here that I think another visit is deserved... only this time ensuring I get something straight out of the oven. Because if the entire pie can be as terrific as those glimpses I got a sense of... now we're talking something special, perhaps "Top 20 in Toronto" special. Lets call it a strong "B+" in the meantime... which is enough that I would recommend trying them out (but again, its gotta be fresh because that conveyor belt oven isn't keeping anything warm for long in December weather).

 

So much for keeping this review short, eh. I even dialed down the personal backstory more than usual! Like how the first time I tried Milano's, I was actually at Kipling Station to buy a bike from a dude off Kijii (the bike ended up being a lemon and got stolen within a month. 2020! Great times). Anyhow so after I bought the bike I noticed a little winding street leading up to Bloor and so with th  

     

Thursday, 14 December 2023

This Week In Pizza: Pizzeria Badiali

 


 

For starters, I'd like to thank both cold December weather and the Prince Street Pizza sensation here in Toronto. The rare times I'd passed by Badiali, or spoken about it with other people... the prospect of huge hungry lineups dissuaded me from making the trip. Solution: pick a cold cloudy day in the infancy of Canadian winter! And so I went, during the middle of a Thursday afternoon (after yet another internally disparaging job interview... my least favourite running joke ever). 

They were indeed busy but there were only four/five people ahead of me in the inside queue (which is way better than having to wait for half an hour outside, which I'd feared). Overall, the whole thing took maybe five minutes, probably less... and there's something about their interior atmosphere I quite like. You have the big window facing out onto the corner of Argyle and Dovercourt, surrounded by houses, and yet there's so much traffic both vehicle and pedestrian that sitting by this window would be perfect for an afternoon of people watching. It's no surprise this spot was a cafe in previous incarnations. 

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Thing is, I had tried Badiali pizza before. A couple of years ago, actually. Similarly on a random afternoon, I went with a baseball friend who knows his pie, along with some of his pizza loving chums... and we split one of their vodka sauce pizzas. Problem was, I wasn't feeling super great that day and my sense of taste and appetite was greatly diminished. It was a serious struggle to even finish one slice! Shocking, I know. In that moment I could get a faint sense of the quality (think I mentioned it reminded me of a really good grilled cheese sandwich in pizza form) but with my senses diminished as such... it felt dishonest to properly review or grade them.      

For a couple of years I sat on this one... knowing they deserved a second chance for me to fully appreciate what they were about, but the opportunity to easily do so wasn't quite so easy. If I still worked at The Drake Hotel? I could've knocked this one off a week later! ...but The Drake was rid of me a good twelve years before Badiali even opened, and I'm rarely ever in that area at all anymore. Don't even recognize that stretch of Queen West at all! Plus, as I mentioned in my Prince Street review... I hate waiting in line for anything (even pizza), and the summertime lineups for Badiali tend to bend around the block. 

So instead, I visited Badiali on a reasonably chilly December afternoon. Also like the Toronto Prince Street, Badiali is a quaint but small operation on the inside... with just a tiny little waiting space and a short lineup corral leading to the counter (thus why you see lineups often stretching long into the outdoors, which also has stanchions set for lineups). Unlike Prince Street, Badiali has a little fenced in patio adjacent to the Dovercourt road sidewalk... a space completely closed and without tables or chairs for the current winter season. Man... I picked simultaneously a good time of year to avoid the lines but a terrible time to comfortably eat the damn thing. Luckily there's a park nearby for resourceful bums-I-mean-pizza-tasting-experts like myself.    



Hey, how about we talk about the damn pizza already. Badiali offers slices (bless them) and as you see in the lead photo I got two of them to try: their standard pepperoni offering and a vodka sauce creation (the very one I'd tried on the first go). First with the pepperoni slice, check out this additional picture:



That is what you call a perfectly thin slice, my friends. You can see the crispness of it leaping at you from the pixels... but oftentimes a slice so thin can be unappealingly crunchy and gritty (there's a place called Baldini's in Leslieville I tried that was so extreme in this case, even baked to order, I didn't even want to review it. Not a horrible pizza, but definitely a swing and a miss). 

Well, Badiali does not have that particular problem whatsoever. The texture is flawless: you get that thin crunch but its soft with some give to it, without any kind of dry crumbliness whatsoever. Frankly, this was an example of a term I'd like to coin as "Love At First Bite" (surely no one as clever as I has ever thought of that one before, right?). I find with the absolute upper upper tier of pizzas I've tried, you simply know instantly how incredibly excellent they are. I'll describe this sensation in more detail at the end but needless to say I wouldn't mention it were this not one of those occasions. 

What exactly is Badiali doing so well, you ask? As I mentioned, the texture of both slices was sublime despite being notably different (the vodka slice much softer). The gentle baked crisp of the pepperoni slice made it a pure delight to chomp into, while the pillowy crust counter-balanced all that. This crust was simply exceptional: almost like a freshly baked light doughy breadstick with a faint hint of butter and garlic. I was tempted to get a dipping sauce for these slices (and I recall their dips are quite good from that first trip) but fundamentally this crust needs none of that. 

Speaking of basics... this is a very simple and common concoction: it's just a pepperoni slice. However, like a classic Margherita, only because its simple doesn't mean it has to be boring... and there are little flairs in here that enhance and make this pizza so dynamic flavour-wise. You can't quite see it but there is just a faint addition of grana padano (and pecorino) shavings on here, adding a subtle hint of dry and salty cheese atop this affair. For the record, any kind of cheese in the parmesean-like family is a wicked addition to a pepperoni pizza... even my dad did this when we'd get 2-4-1 pizzas back when I was in Grade Three. 

But what is most important is how well you nail those basics, which Badiali does. The sauce is likewise terrific, vivid with tomato goodness (it leans sweet but not too sweet or acidic,... fantastic balance). Good pepperoni (just enough grease and crisp on the edges) and the cheese firmly holds it all together... not a standout (at least on this slice) but you know it's there doing its thing at a high level. Again, despite the basics of these ingredients... this pepperoni slice was a collage of flavours working in symphonic harmony with one another, creating a song that lingers on the tongue and mind well after the final movemen-I mean bite. Truly one of the very best pepperoni slices I've ever had this side of New York City... and I don't think it was immediately fresh out of the oven either. Huh. 

 


  

I'll try to be more brief with the vodka sauce slice, as by its nature there is less to discuss here. Once again, simplicity! This is just a cheese pizza with vodka sauce in for tomato sauce (and vodka sauce is a type of tomato sauce anyhow). 

While probably I prefer their pepperoni offering, this is likewise a terrific slice. Much more subtle, soft and cheesy than that other one: gone is that irresistible crispness and instead you get a pleasant bigger sensation on each bite. The butteryness of the cheese (they say its fior di latte on this one instead of mozza and the difference is evident) almost expands in the mouth on each bite. Just fabulous flavour, texture with just the right amount of it to not be lacking or overpowering. 

Getting into the vodka sauce itself... this is a very different vodka sauce than the one I recently tried with Prince Street (sorry to keep using them as a reference* but hey, both are NY styles). The Prince Street vodka sauce was excellent but much more aggressive than Badiali's, with a stronger oniony/garlicy punch and very oily. Badiali's vodka sauce aims more for the subtle: its far creamier, with a tiny hint of tomato sweetness and the faint poking of onion on the back of the tongue. A beautiful compliment instead of a headline attraction, dominating the overall flavour much less. To be honest I'm not sure which I'd prefer as they're difficult to compare... both are great in their own ways.

Finally... the reheat test. Despite my own screwup (keeping the slice in the pan on low heat juuuust a bit too long, stupid music distracting me)... yeah Badiali nails that one too. It (me) made the bottom a bit too crunchy from the pan heat, but the flavours were completely reawakened (it was the vodka one I reheated) and the wonderful taste and texture of the cheese was still there. Even the crust held its soft dough... marvelous.

 

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Overall. Yeah this pizza sucked don't go there. Like and subscribe West Collier Street, ring the bell we've got merch and pizza shaped hats on our webzone for sale.

No in seriousness though, like wow. Damn! A rare occasion I couldn't even find a minor fault in anything here. Uhhhh.... there was a bubble in my pepperoni slice? And even that was fine because it was still soft! Badiali passes every test I look for in a pizza. Flavours? Fantastic, rich and lingering. Creativity? Nothing crazy, but the sheer simplicity of their vodka slice deserves some points for pulling that off so effectively. Atmosphere? I love the small, cafe-like feel of the interior... plus I didn't have to wait an hour in line! Texture? Second to none. So enjoyable on each bite, and different on either slice.

It says a lot when you can keep things so simple, and yet execute them at such a high level that your little spot can be the buzz of the pizza game for so long. They aren't re-inventing the wheel here, but they make one hell of a wheel nonetheless. For me, this is easily one of the ten best pizza places in Toronto at the moment... probably even Top Five. 

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Earlier in this review I mentioned the concept of "Love At First Bite". To me, its a sensation of instantly realizing this is something incredibly damn amazing... something that makes your taste buds light up like a pinball machine with multiball. You legitimately want to say "Oh my gawd" aloud. It's a sensation that can be fleeting once you sort of get used to the flavours you're experiencing... say by the fifth sample its still pleasant but not as overwhelmingly transcendent as that initial greeting. To run with the 'love' analogy... it's similar to a first kiss with somebody. While consistently wonderful, its the first one that burns into your memory. 

Well... Badiali was consistently wonderful throughout every bit I got to enjoy of these two slices. Phenomenal pizza, barely a flaw or a scuff to it, and I can't recommend them enough. A true contender. They get an "A" from me, and I don't give those out generously/really ever. One of the best pizzas I've had in this city.  

 

 

 

*final Prince Street Pizza reference! PSP is really incredibly good.... but Badiali is better. A full notch better, even     

Saturday, 9 December 2023

This Week In Pizza: Liberty Pizzeria

 


 

Give me liberty! Or give me... pizza!

Also: Liberty Pizza is not located in the Toronto neighbourhood of Liberty Village... they call the newly transforming Regent Park home instead. So why are they called this? Whaaaa? As ridiculously expensive and underwhelming as District Pizza is... I at least get why they're called that.

At the risk of skipping my usual dawdling intro paragraphs (I'm sure all you readers are heartbroken), I'm sorry to say that Liberty Pizza was a solid disappointment. Google Reviews seem to love them, with an average score of 4.7 as I write this. I'm sorry, but huh? Was the best pizza option in this area a Domino's or something for like thirty years, and so anything slightly better in quality gets a laundry basket of undeserved praise? Actually... if the only pizza I could eat for three decades was Domino's... well I suppose by now this would be a cheeseburger or shawarma blog instead but nevertheless!

I'm being somewhat unnecessarily mean because Liberty isn't actually bad, but it also is distant from amazing and I had higher expectations for this one. Especially at the price (nearly 30 bucks)... you've gotta bring something more than this. It also reheats terribly (more on that later) and frankly none of the key components of a pizza (sauce, cheese, bread) are strong or notable enough to elevate its most lacking elements. 

 


 

So what exactly is the problem? Why is this humble (but experienced) pizza reviewer so dismayed by a place with consistently excellent reviews? Well, I'll start with the positives: the thin crust texture works to its favour. The pickled onions are pleasant and provide some delicate sweetness. Annnnnd that's all. Seriously, like I said... nothing here is especially bad, but none of it jumps out either. 

As you possibly know I tend to like sampling unusual topping combinations as a way of judging the creative skill of a pizza joint. One of the many reasons I like Descendant so much is because many of their pies combine ingredients you might not have thought could work so well together. It's a tricky balance: I don't like crazy for the sake of crazy, but there's also a reason I don't just order a cheese or pepperoni pizza everytime I try new places.  

This here is Liberty's "chorizo" pizza, additionally with pickled onions and sliced potatoes. While I strongly defend pineapple and even chicken (when done right) on pizza... potatoes on a pie has never been a winner for me. Basically, I've never encountered one where it works, and despite initial optimism Liberty doesn't pull it off either. Tomatoes and potatoes (rhyme time!) are an awkward fit to begin with, the starch doesn't blend well with the saucey acidity... and then factoring in the dough... you get a lot of bites of flavours and textures clashing. A white pizza with potatoes makes way more sense: give it a creamier, cheesier base and it can blend together (in theory) nicely. Here, with tomato sauce? Just doesn't work for me.

But the real issue aren't the potatoes, which themselves are nicely sliced and individually enjoyable. No, it's the sausage. You call this a chorizo pizza, and sadly the chorizo is the topping that stands out the least. You barely notice it: not much flavour, the bits of it are tiny, and well frankly can you even see it in my photographs? No, this is more of an onion and potato pizza, with faint notions of pork. Man, what a let down. 

It's also waaaay too overseasoned. Normally I like a pinch of pepper or garlic or whatever as a nice compliment, but this is just overkill. Seasoning shouldn't overshadow the main attractions, and frankly considering how bland/not a presence the chorizo is on this pizza... it feels like an attempt to hide it. Even tasting one of the very little bits of pork on its own... just bleh. Little flavour.

For whatever reason... reasons that make little sense to me... it reheats horribly. Even in the pan, low temperature... it gets super dry and crusty, and loses the little flavour it clings to. At this point... a complete waste of money. 


Overall. Yeah no. I don't get it. Maybe it's my fault for ordering the weirdest pizza on the menu? But even then... the fundamentals were so underwhelming that I'm confident saying even if I'd ordered a standard pepperoni pie, I wouldn't recommend Liberty Pizza. Despite this review being largely negative, they legitimately aren't terrible... I'd take this over most big pizza chains... but that's not a compliment. Unlike a place like Otherside, which had considerable strengths brought down by considerable weaknesses... Liberty didn't show me anything worth considering a second chance. Sorry, but it's a "C" from me. Being so terrible and barely edible on the reheat clinches it. Not impressed whatsoever. 



Sunday, 26 November 2023

This Week In Pizza: BIG 3 Detroit Style Pizza

 

 


 

BIG 3 is one of those pizza places I probably discovered on one of BlogTo's typical hype articles. "NEW RESTAURANT IS SOOOOO POPULAR YOU HAVE TO ORDER YOUR FOOD SIXTEEN YEARS AHEAD OF TIME! WHOAAA!!!"

Indeed, there was an article back in 2021 that gave this very notion about Big 3. And yet... they've never really come up in discussions I've had with fellow pizza lovers, nor has Big 3 been recommended to me on any online forum I inflict-oops-I-mean-share my work upon.

They've been on my list for a while regardless, because I'm the Pokemon of pizza reviewers (gotta try em all!). After a rather disappointing job interview one recent Tuesday, I slowly made my way from Midtown Toronto back into my old neighbourhood of Yonge and Bloor, eager for some pizza.  

This isn't an area I visit at all anymore, not since I moved out on my own well over a decade ago, despite obvious nostalgia (my old high school is also nearby). Much of it has become unrecognizable to me even in that relatively short time... towering modern condos replacing little places and spots I can still recall vividly in the fading recesses of my mind. Yonge street is especially this way, but Church Street still retains some kernels of the places I remember. As I was about to enter Big 3, which is a few doors down from the 519 community center... I suddenly realized the location of Big 3 Pizza is precisely where a really great sandwich shop/deli named The Garage (I think?) used to be... a place I haven't thought about in well over twenty years. 

It's located inside an old brick house, where you walk up a short set of curved steps and the ordering area must've been a living room many decades ago. As such, it's a tight space with minimal seating... but fortunately it was a rarely pleasant and sunny November afternoon and the place wasn't exactly packed either. One aspect that caught my eye, and I'd noticed this online when checking out their menu, is that they also sell frozen versions of some of their particular pies. This is becoming fairly common now: Libretto, General Assembly and Piano Piano all do the same thing... but Big 3 is the first Detroit style pizzeria I've seen doing this (and they provide fairly specific cooking instructions as well).

Since I don't often carry around an oven with me... I went for something fresh: a pizza cleverly named "Take Me To Church" featuring mushrooms, sopressata, ricotta dollops, mozzarella, truffle oil and globs of tomato sauce on top (their website seems to have the wrong photo for this one). 

 


 

Toronto has quite a few Detroit style pizzerias now. None have even come close to matching Descendant, but Slowhand in Leslieville is truly worth a visit... and others like 8Mile certainly do the style reasonable justice. Aside from the semi-gross and expensive Oswald's, Toronto's take on the Detroit style tends to hit a solid baseline.

BIG 3 falls right along that baseline. There are some elements I really like, and others that underwhelm. The mozzarella cheese? Very meh and generic, like store bought shredded fare. The tomato sauce on top? Hearty and flavourful, like it belongs in a delicious lasagna. The sopressata? Fairly okay, not much of a spice or flavour presence. The ricotta dollops? Invaluable... the truffle taste seems centralized within them and it really elevates what would otherwise be a very repetitive, mediocre pizza into an interesting one. The mushrooms are mushrooms, nothing special or terrible. 

How about the texture? Is it enjoyable to eat? Overall... yes! Once again, the mozzarella really holds it back... it's just bland and once cold gets in the way of everything else. But despite that, they get the textures of a good Detroit style pie right: that thin crispiness on the edges, wonderful soft doughiness in the center. Good on the reheat as well: didn't go stale or lose a whole lot. Aside from the truffly ricotta (a strong presence sure but I would've liked just a little more of it) there's a good balance and distribution of the toppings (especially counting the tomato sauce as a topping, which is probably my favourite aspect of this pizza).


Overall. There isn't a whole lot more to say beyond: there are a few things they do very well, and a few that fall into generic territory. I do wonder if they have a prepared base for certain pizzas (frozen or otherwise) and then add required toppings as necessary, since it would explain the very forgettable cheese and salami. When you sell your pizzas frozen as well... I tend to put two and two together. 

Even if that is the case... well I don't recommend Big 3 as a "must try" but they're good enough to earn a lower end "B" from me, because like I said this had more tasty elements going for it than not. It's a weird one because if everything worked, it'd be pretty terrific... but its like they cheaped out on particular things and so it's a fairly uneven experience.